Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

Posted on
Page
of 478
  • Have an invoice sent over to my secretary.

  • For silver 700s I’d consider HPlus Son tb14, Velocity Atlas or maybe Cliffhanger if you fancy trying tubeless at some point. Maybe some Hope hubs.

  • I'd agree b.

    Sometimes it is also worth looking the rim from the bed side and seeing which way the spoke holes are offset, might be clearer than at the hub side of the rim.

  • Best thing to do is saw the rim in half across the valve hole to see what the spoke bed angle is doing.

    But yeah surely the arrow is saying: Spoke this hole on > that side of the hub. At least your wheels are 50% right... 😆

    AAMOI is the wheel that went a bit off true the wrongly spoked one?!

  • Spoke this hole on > that side of the hub

    Suddenly it makes sense! Yeah, that's the rear! Thankfully rebuilding the front should be less hassle.

  • Thats no way to talk about @amey

  • Thanks for all the help folks, I spoke to Koko and it's definitely b! Makes total sense when I look at it again. I'm not sure it's made a difference, but they were fine on yesterday's ride.

    I'm concerned about tension as it seems low on the TM 1, about 80/115 on front and closer figures on the rear. The spokes seem tight, and they're even, but they're definitely on the low end of the range. I'm going with my gut at the moment as I don't fully trust the calibration on the meter, and I'm terrified of pulling a spoke through as I've done in the past.

  • Hi all, I currently have some Mavic Aksiums with very worn rims on my road bike. As such, I’m weighing up my options for a suitable replacement pair of wheels - budget is probably around £200. Criteria other than that is basically “slightly nicer than the ‘entry level’ Aksiums”.

    Questions are:

    • Are the Mavic hubs worth getting relaced to some new rims (I.e. are the standard Mavic hubs actually any good? I haven’t had any issues, but I’m after longevity and low hassle.)
    • If the answer to the above is no, what would be the recommended hubs?
    • Would the most appropriate (cost, durability and performance) rims be Kinlin XR31s? Any other suggestions welcome.
    • For the spokes, would regular double butted Sapim be sufficient?

    Thanks

  • If I was building budget (but decent) rim brake wheelset here’s what I’d go for

    https://www.spacycles.co.uk/m2b0s116p4299/AMBROSIO-P20-20h-24h-Black

    Buy these (20h front 24h rear) £30 for both

    ACI alpina silver DB spokes (0.25p each includes nipple)

    Some decent bitex or novatec hubs off eBay

    I bought a bitex set for £40 posted.

    Then either build yourself or ask someone here. Will cost about £30 per wheel.

  • Why not more Aksiums? You won't get anything faster under £200
    It's not worth trying to re-rim Aksiums
    XR31T is nearly always the right answer in this thread, but you won't get them built to worthwhile hubs for under £200, it's going to be closer to £250 with Shimano R7000 hubs which are about as low as you want to go to get something which is actually an upgrade over Aksiums.
    Yes, basic Sapim (or DT or ACI) DB spokes are what you want.

    It depends a lot on what you mean by road bike. For racing, just get more Aksiums. If your road bike is what you use for general tooling around on tarmac and you don't care about speed, it might just about be worthwhile to spend an extra £100 on handbuilt wheels which will be more maintainable/repairable.

  • Wiggles Prime Baroudeur. I got a set for £180 and they're light, stiff and no proprietary bullshit.

  • I'm torn between some Miche RG2 32h hubs on ebay for £70 or Hope RS 3 Mono 20/24h for £110 on the bay again

    Is there any point in spending the extra £40?

    Skinflints R us

    TIA

  • Miche are shit and Hope are overpriced. Get novatec or bitex if youre a skinflint

  • I’d let the spoke count decide. Hope sounds like a good deal, but 32h is better If you want them for touring.

    Also miche road hubs are pretty well rated, they use very large bearings that add to the weight but also to their lifetime

  • Miche are shit

    I think that applies to Primato Pista. AFAIK, the road hubs are well made by a reputable Taiwanese factory.

  • I have used my miche rg2s for a good few years now, never had a problem.

  • Can someone help me diagnose an issue?

    Building a wheel, everything going dandy.

    Get it nice and true / round so decide to do a another round of tensioning (quite high already so just do a half turn all the way round)

    Put the wheel back in the stand and it’s super wobbly, seemingly in an opposite manner to what the spoke tensions suggest, (so rim is leaning away from a tight spoke). Spoke tension becomes erratic too, fairly even before then all over the place

    Think ok gunna try and l release some wind up, maybe that’ll sort it. Put it back in the stand, no difference.

    Continue truing, getting it pretty good then a spoke snaps, roughly where it’s butted at the end closest to the shoulder.

    What could be the issue? Was that last half turn of tensioning too much maybe?

  • Sounds like your spoke tensions were too high for the rim. We're you using a tensiometer or just feel?

  • What could be the issue? Was that last half turn of tensioning too much maybe?

    Yup, it's a thing:
    https://www.google.com/search?q=pringle+during+tensioning

  • Based on that link it seems to be everything

  • @Turkish maybe I might get some wheels built up in near future if I get my finances in order and work out a budget. Would you post them within the UK if I got parts posted to you down in SW London? If so, I'll start looking some options for rims+hubs but if too much hassle I'll understand completely.

  • Yeah, oops on the truncation, but I'm sure people can figure that out 🙂

  • Hey, I'm not sure id be comfortable posting big wheel boxes at the moment given how much post I've had go missing. Also factoring in cost of postage wouldnt make me significantly cheaper than most lbs. Where are you based?

  • Ok ta danstuff, testr. Think it was a combination of going too high with the tensions, and not properly dealing with spoke wind up. Everything was lubed up pretty thoroughly and nipples were sat in sapim washers, guess the tension went up much easier than normal and I was just being complacent, gauging it by feel.

    Have backed them all off a couple of turns and all seems well now. Hopefully not compromised the wheel too much :s

  • Post a reply
    • Bold
    • Italics
    • Link
    • Image
    • List
    • Quote
    • code
    • Preview
About

Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

Posted by Avatar for eeehhhh @eeehhhh

Actions