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• #102
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• #103
Not much been going on as I’ve not been commuting much by bike. Puncture and bar adjustments, mostly, plus some plans to make this more dadbiek. Also swapped out the sketchy not-even-China Carbon seatpost clamp for an equally sketchy no name alloy one. It doesn’t look anywhere near as chonky though, so that’s much better.
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• #104
Took this out in dadmobile guise for the first time today because of enforced WFH during the Covid-19 outbreak. Cargo bike is round in the garage and needs a bit of attention so I put the Hamax on this and we went for a ride down the towpath to try it out. Which is rough and muddy and I quickly realised I was on the wrong bike.
The normal handling is just what I’d call a bit twitchy, but with a toddler hanging out behind the back axle I’d describe it as ‘a bit of a handful’. Shit my pants a couple of times when I thought we might end up in the river!
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• #105
Looks like it had been designed specifically for that purpose
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• #106
Have improved the handling significantly. I could see in shop window reflections that the seat was leaning back a long way so I rotated it more upright. Immediate difference. Then today I moved it forwards a bit on the rails and it was better again. I still think it would be better on a bike with longer stays, but for now it’s not bad. I did 14 miles today and it was fine.
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• #107
Quick parts bin stock-take for potential Covid-19 upgrade. Quite a lot of my bike stuff is at work and inaccessible for the foreseeable. I don’t find the risers especially comfortable on longer daytime rides and I wanted to see if I have everything here to switch to drop bars. Tldr; is it looks like yes, I do, as long as my gear cable inners are long enough.
I’ve got: Deda Piega drops in a Cinelli 1A, carbon 10sp Rival levers, 10sp-era Rival callipers, short cage 10sp Rival rear mech, various new and used cable outers, various new and used cable inners, various ferrules, used bar tape.
At a quick glance, I think I have enough pink cable outer to swap bars without butchering the black set on the risers. I’ll leave the callipers off for now so it’s a quicker swap. Rear mech is too small for this huge cassette so that will stay off anyway. Secondhand bar tape is actually ideal because this is my first ever time with brifters and I’ll probably have to take it back off anyway.
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• #108
I had a crack at this last night. I got the outers fitted up, but my gear cable for the RD wasn't long enough, frustratingly by only about 5cm. No way around that so I've just got to sit and wait for a new one to arrive by post.
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• #109
Delays. Issues with Royal Mail delays, sent an item to work by mistake etc etc. Had another crack at this last night with the correct length inners. Only hitch I came across is the X7 derailleur doesn't have an adjuster barrel like on a road one because the adjuster is on the shifter end. I tried to ignore it and hope it went away but it didn't. Option 1: switch to the Rival derailleur and revel at how much I pwn (I pwn) at groupset shift ratio choice for interchangeability, but I probably won't be able to shift onto the 34t cog; or option 2: wait until next week for the inline barrel adjuster to arrive.
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• #110
Decided to wait for the inline barrel adjusters to arrive. They arrived. Rubber on them was perishing and sticky. FFS. Rage-swapped the derailleur to the Rival one and rage-purchased a 12-28 cassette.
This was the right thing to do. The 11-34 cassette and X7 kit can go on my cargo bike as an upgrade from the 9-speed X0 that’s currently on there, and the X0 can go back on my mtb.
Lashed it all together to get it riding and left things like the cable ends quite long just in case. Then went for a short ride yesterday. It’s much better with drops. First ever ride with brifters. I quite like the SRAM doubletap shifters but I did get a few mis-shifts like I’d read about. The retro Shimano callipers don’t work with those levers, so the Rival ones will go on. Seatpost looks even more shite now, so I’ll have to deal with it.
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• #111
V. nice, but please buy this.
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• #112
Yeah something like that with the logos well out the way would be ideal. Not sure if I’d get away with an inline though. I’ll have a look but think it would be too far forwards for the saddle rails. Also I’m pretty sure there’s not enough exposed post to be able to use the shortest of the Mike Burrows aero seatposts.
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• #113
Road pedals and child seat clamp removal away from making a full turnaround to awesome bike!
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• #114
I was just about to suggest a Burrows seat post.
Shame it won't fit
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• #115
Am I the only person who thinks these are fugly?
Some things should be forgotten.
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• #116
No, I don’t really like them either. I don’t really like any of those posts that start round and flare out at the top, especially the Chinese carbon ones. They look a bit like a flag!
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• #117
Plus the clamp area is a bit questionable on those cheap Chinese ones. Here’s one I sectioned a while back.
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• #118
Is the white stuff just resin?
The carbon looked real thin here:
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• #119
We weren’t 100% certain what it was, but because of the awkward shape right up at the end of the seatpost there, it’s probably a plug of consolidator to make sure the bag had something smooth to press against without getting popped or stuck in the end.
I don’t think the thickness of the carbon is so much of a concern. The worst bit is round the clamp area. Those dark grey slightly bubbly looking areas are not carbon, they’re patches of a shoot-in expanding filler that used to be used in the ends of moulds where consolidation was difficult (back in the day before bagging techniques improved).
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• #120
Not been using this much recently as my Rudy road/mtb/frankengravel dadbiek has been doing most duties. But got some upgrades looming.
Cassette is now a 12-28. Rival calipers still need to go on. Got compact Rival crankset.
Ummed and aaahed about the seatpost for too long, specifically Chinese carbon, and picked up this vintage Pinarello post for about the same price. Definitely in beater condition and could do with a lick of lacquer before going on, but is surprisingly light. Inside, it’s stepped in 3 different thicknesses.
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• #121
This is currently for sale in the classifieds: https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/355212/
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• #122
Fast biek recovered from garage and adjustments made to ride.
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• #123
Yes! Looks great like this rather than in bizarro dad biek mode.
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• #124
Commuted on this today. I seem to have all but 3 of my fillings left so that was a success. Couple of adjustments needed with the bars. The levers are too low and I've temporarily rotated the bars a bit, but moving the levers up is going to shorten my reach too much. I reckon a 10mm longer stem will sort it out. Feels like I could also use marginally wider bars, but maybe running the cables round the outside and back will do the trick without changing the bars.
This is my first commute with Rival. There are a lot of things I like about Rival but I had my suspicions that 105 would be a superior groupset for commuting. I go through a lot of traffic lights, so a lot of braking and stop-starting, running through the gears. 105 on my Rudy is great for this because you can brake and downshift at the same time. You can't really do this with Rival. The upshift is lighter and more positive with 105, especially when shifting up 2 or 3 gears, but the downshift is better with Rival. For me I think the hoods might be more comfortable with Rival and I don't like the exposed bit of mechanism on the inside of 105.
I've actually just remembered how much of a bastard it was getting these Deda Piega bars into the stem and broken out into a sweat. Maybe I'll just put up with it.
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• #125
Commuting on a unicanitor? Ouch
Ha, I didn't notice that!
Love the bike though, those wheels on that frame is amazing.