What time is it? Watches and horology

Very nice this from Zenith. Basically an A384 with a matte titanium case and no date.

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/zenith-chronomaster-revival-shadow-introducing

That's beautiful @JB. What's the model?

2890-3 - powered by a manual wind cal 267 from 1957.

Available for $1750 on Reddit.

Amazing thanks.

*waves

I wouldnt be suprised if my Panerai has a cookie cutter movement... But different times...
Now, that would bug me. Especially since most top brands are now doing inhouse movements (even if theyre forced to). Back then, there were ETAs or ETAs, Unitas or Unitas.

I dont mind an ETA on a smaller brand but it bugs me to get a selita in a Sinn.

I love the Bucherer Oris Sixy Five, but its the Selita that turns me off... Its big tom for a cheap off the shelf movement.

Maybe thats it... I seee Selita as a cheap knockoff of an ETA.

Can anybody help me id this watch?

Its an Omega

(i crack myself up)

I'm not sure there's really much difference between Sellita and ETA, certainly in respect of movement design - the ETA movement patents expired so Sellita basically cloned them (think they used to work with ETA before then so knew the same suppliers etc as well). That Oris movement is Sellita's clone of the ETA 7750.

PS - Unitas PAMs are the way forward too (mine's one) - tried and tested movements and you get to swerve having to send it off to the famously rigorous and customer-friendly Panerai service centre if you don't want to.

Jesus the market for these has gone crazy. Personally I blame Ryan Gosling.
Good advice btw.

@Shinscar
Long time no speak! This period / style is a minefield or repainted dials, parts watches and so on. Tread carefully. Most black dials were not originally black and most cross-hair dials were not originally cross-hairs. If you see something you like feel free to post decent quality pictures here for a second opinion. The best period IMO will be early 1960s and gold cases are not sold at a premium so if you prefer gold over steel then hold out for the right watch.

I get you, and maybe i just need my view changed, but i have an image of Sellita not having the rigourous standards in place. Like its a copy, but a bad one.

Like it should be in a Pagani or Parnis.

RAY!

Just noticed - IT’S FRIDAY!

Watch brands only use Sellita when they can’t get ETA. That’s all you need to know.

Up to the consumer to decide where the value is in a watch. I do think two grand is pushing it a bit for anything with a Sellita in. That U50 is definitely on the pricey side.

Pelagos

1 Attachment

Seiko Lordmatic
And some sleep inducing literature.

1 Attachment

Been wearing Seikos all week but back on the OP today.

1 Attachment

I don't know dude, I have yet to find a watchmaker who considers the Selita SW200 inferior to the ETA 2824 or the SW300 inferior to the ETA 2892.

Well, i'm sure supply is a really big part of it. But if there is a preference for ETA over Selita, it is consumer driven based on marketing and not based on specification or quality. I mean, all Selita movements can come with a COSC certificate if you go for Elaboree grade.

Its all down to the fact that Swatch group want to provide movements to their own brands. Nothing more, nothing less.

Jut looking at a list of brands using Selita SW300-1 in one shape or another

Hublot
IWC
Montblanc
Tag Heur

I honestly would have no preference for a modified ETA over a modified Selita. Surely its just brand snobbery?

Brand snobbery is the entire watch industry

Yeah, tbf I don't think there's much of a difference, it probably is marketing/brand perception more than anything. Have even seen it suggested that some Sellitas actually are ETA kits, merely assembled by Sellita.

You do read about the rotor bearings being noisier and/or less reliable on the Sellita autos, and that's one part that does look visibly different from what I've seen. I'm no expert or watchmaker though, obvs.

Probably, and it's a recent thing, I think Tudor have been smart in realising that consumers suddenly care about it when they hadn't for decades.

The Pelagos and Black Bay are nicer and more serviceable watches with the ETA, imo.

Have even seen it suggested that some Sellitas actually are ETA kits, merely assembled by Sellita.

Selita literally made movements for ETA for decades, they are part of ETA's heritage.

You do read about the rotor bearings being noisier and/or less reliable on the Sellita autos, and that's one part that does look visibly different from what I've seen. I'm no expert or watchmaker though, obvs.

This is possibly true, I have a couple of noiser Selita movements but they are just base movements with no improvements. ETA movements aren't the quietest in their base form either. When I learned to service the 2824, I was really suprised at how "unfinished" the movements was side by side with a manufacturer modified one. It takes a lot of work to get an ETA movement to look good enough to have a display back case, and a mountain of work to add common enhancements.

In any case, fuck it, Eterna invented the bearing rotor and do it better than anybody imho and they use Selita as a base movement if my memory serves me correctly.

The big reason why the ETA Black Bays are more sought after than the Tudor in house ones is that they are significantly thinner.

Surely its just brand snobbery?

This is definitely the wrong thread, and probably the wrong forum, for this comment... 😂