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  • Easily fixed, thank god.

    Swing is only in the way as I'm also seeding the lawn with meadowseed.

  • Easily fixed, thank god.

    I would have just explained the flaws as akin to those purposely placed by Mennonite and Amish quilters in their works as evidence of man's (sic) imperfection.

  • There are enough of those elsewhere...

  • That's so lux, beauty job.
    @Sharkstar, yep the GRK use Torx - flush mount would be better in terms of not retaining water of course though for shovelling snow (not likely an issue for most around here) I prefer a little below the surface.

  • New drill charged, masonry bit installed, hammer function selected, tip of drill bit applied to wall= lots of noise, zero penetration (fnar fnar).

    Ah well, it's what I expected, and I didn't buy the new drill for it's hammer performance. I'll pop down to the garage for the SDS when it's not pissing down.

  • Multipurpose is a good thing, nice job.

  • Part of our kitchen is original, so now 60 years old. This drawer is our cutlery one, so heavily used. Over the years it has worn away the upper part of the back of the slot it slides in and out along. Now it's got soot doesn't really function very well and so causing more damage as it is rammed in by clumsy teenagers.
    Q: is there a simple way to repair this? Have looked into slidey runner things, but there isn't enough depth in the drawer slot to fit them.
    Don't mind changing inside the cupboard but would like to keep the drawer if possible.


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    • IMG_20200429_161039.jpg
  • I want to put a shelf above a door. Going into plasterboard and will be holding books so a fair weight.

    What are the suggestions for attaching it given there is no space underneath to brace it? Off the shelf solutions are fine.

  • gripit fixing

  • I’ve just hung 60kg of kitchen cupboards on 9 Fischer Duotec 10 plugs. Need some space behind the plasterboard to move into place but work a treat if you’ve got the room. Pretty hefty load ratings, I believe it could have been something like 250kg.

    https://content.fischer.de/cbfiles/fischer/lastentabelle/lt_01_duotec_f_%23sen_%23aip_%23v4.pdf


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    • Annotation 2020-04-29 181939.jpg
  • Cheers, they both look like decent options.

    I was also pondering what brackets to use given there will be minimal space under the shelf if anyone has any thoughts.

  • I've just noticed a cracked kitchen tile.
    It should be a solid wall behind it. But there's a gap. How can I bodge it?


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  • Wall or ceiling? I could never get through our ceilings....

  • Watch the rest of what goddamit!?

  • Frozen. Obvs

  • F

  • Well. Olaf's frozen fever.
    We've watched frozen 2 already today.

  • Sounds OK tbf. Today boyo took off his trousers, climbed up and opened the bay window looking into the road, clung onto it, grabbed his schlong and pulled as hard as he could, shouting repeatedly "LOOK AT MY PENIS GUITAR. LOOK AT IT"

    And they did!

  • rock and roll

  • 10/10 would read again.

  • Very metal.
    666/10

  • Hi knowledgeable people,
    What's the most practical way to attach a wooden end fence post to brick?
    The new front fence has two end posts, one to attach to the house, the other to the front wall. Was thinking some sort of rawl plug plus screw combo. Obvs needs to hold tight but shouldn't think it would have massive loads going through it.
    Brick seems solid enough.
    End posts are 100mm and like this. Ta
    Bonus if I can collect from Screwfix or Toolstation.


    1 Attachment

    • Timber Slotted End Fence Post.jpg
  • Rawl plugs and screws will do it. I’d be using a minimum screw length of 150mm.

    Use a level to get it straight and try to drill your holes perpendicular to the wall surface.

    You could get away with sticking it such is the quality of adhesives these days but that would be heresy in my opinion.

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Home DIY

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