Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

Perhaps he does not want the rim to remain gravitionally tied to the hub. O.k that's a bit if an exaggeration.

The M756 is lighter (Shimano claim 239g, that will be excluding the QR) than the Trialtech Sport (280g including bolts) once you've converted your Shimano hub to bolt on using this one weird trick 🙂

280g what on earth is it made from.

Threading an axle never thought of that.

what on earth is it made from

Slightly thicker aluminium than the Shimano one, it seems 🙂

Yeah, weight isn’t an issue. If anything I’m hoping they’re at least as burly as the shimano hubs.. just thought cartridge needed less maintenance. And in the case of no maintenance it wouldn’t necessarily trash the hub.

How about 129g inc bolts? Got 2 of these build 3x rotor side 2x drive side to hit the same length spoke both sides. These are the wheels I use for bike polo, generally without covers.

https://www.tartybikes.co.uk/front_disc_hubs/echo_tr_disc/c20p10705.html

Dear forum folks, knowledge request please. I have a V1 Pompino whose 135 OLD spacing makes it a PITA to get wheels which are both rim brakes and tubeless. They simply don’t make them off the peg unless I spend more than double the bike’s worth for Hope or Hunt etc. Therefore custom build might be the only route, but then the cost of the wheel builder might also make this economically unviable. So I’m back to square one and considering selling the bike, which I really don’t want to do as it’s a cracking ride. Long way of asking a question, but how much should I be expecting to pay someone to build a set of wheels? Anyone have a rough idea please?

how much should I be expecting to pay someone to build a set of wheels?

£40-£80 for labour.

I'll do it for 15 a wheel if you want. SW though

Cheers chaps for info. @Turkish I’m not quite ready yet but that’s a great price, thanks. I’m north though 😐

Starting from £45 including spokes.

Managed to snap a driveside flat, straight-pull spoke on the rear wheel of the Mavic Ksyrium
wheelset on my 'best' bike.
Localish bike shop, that is an official Mavic stockist has nothing in stock,
and wants £15.99 for a pack of ten.
If that's what it is going to cost, I would sooner that amount went to someone on the forum.
Anybody West-ish can help me?

wants £15.99 for a pack of ten

Sounds fair. You can buy them online in singles for £2-£5 each, depending on which of the many versions of the Ksyrium you have. They are mostly proprietary designs, so a generic straight pull DT or Sapim is unlikely to work, and won't be any cheaper anyway

Yep,
I'm not baulking at the price,
it's just the cost of ownership.
Hoping to pay someone on the forum the £16.

Does anyone know the optimum angle that the nipple should exit the rim for wheels built with rohloff hubs? Would it depend on the ERD?

I’ve found this ‘diagram’ on the webs, but its more a visual aid as there are no measurements. This is the description in the rohloff manual

The Rohloff SPEEDHUB 500/14 is only available in a 32/36 spoke version. The ideal rims to be used are triple hollow aluminum rims from known manufacturers with reinforced spoke eyelets (min. 4,4mm) or alternatively, rims which are diagonally drilled or with countersunk nipple seats (e.g. ANDRA, Taurus, GRIZZLY and EDGE 7 from Rigida/Ryde or the Ex19 rim from Exal).

@R.Hobbs might know?

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Does anyone know the optimum angle that the nipple should exit the rim for wheels built with rohloff hubs? Would it depend on the ERD?

The angle at the rim is a function of all the usual wheel parameters, and can be calculated using trigonometry. The limiting condition will depend on the nipple, nipple seat and drilling axis. Sapim give a permitted alignment error between spoke axis and drilling axis of 12 degrees for their Polyax nipple

You wondering whether Rhyno Lite is gonna be OK?

According to what you posted from Rohloff, either 'reinforced' (by which I take to mean eyeletted) rims, or rims with specially drilled hole angles for Rohloff will be OK. I would use whatever is either of those, and if the rim dies try another. If you're worried you could add nipple washers to maybe give a bit more leeway #notanengineer

“ PDF I attached shows the ideal spoke angle in a lateral direction. Use of incorrect rims here can lead to the same kink and thus issues we see with 3 or 4 cross lacing patterns. Fatbike hubs are thus recommended to use rims with a Nipple offset of at least 12.5mm so we achieve an angle of between 7 and 9 degrees in this direction too.”

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Nipple-Winkel-XL-X...

Had to go deep into the darkweb to find that document I see

Hi everyone,
I am putting a lot of miles on my Genesis Day one disc. It has been a custom (parts bin) build as I had bought it frame only, so never came with original wheels. I have been running a cheap road disc wheel with SS adapter which works fine but I dont like the look and one of the cones is on its way out so looking for a new SS-disc wheel.

After a bit of a disaster with an original Day One wheel off ebay (probably payed too much, condition was bad, odyssey to find new cones, first ride freewheel body broke) I have decided to not use this route.

I am thinking of a custom wheel and I had built a few wheels some years back. I have limited skill and experience but don’t mind a bit of a project at the moment. I am hoping to get some opinion/advice from the more experienced wheel builders in this thread.

This is the plan: There are not too many options for single speed disc rear hubs that I am aware of and I want to run the simple cog without the integrated freewheel. I would like sealed bearing as well. The only options I know are Hope Trials and Novatec D256SBT. The Hope is out of my budget so Novatec unless any of you has other ideas. (A more silent freewheel would be nice but I guess I am in dirt jump territory)

If anyone has suggestion on a good rim and value spokes I should use? I want a light but sturdy wheel. I have not experimented with wide tires yet but don’t think I want to go too big. Running 700x25 at the moment 28 or 30, yes, but would not go larger than 32.

Any input much appreciated!

light but sturdy

Pick one

A more silent freewheel would be nice

I've had both, and I'm pretty sure the Novatec was quieter than the Hope, so there's that 🙂

good rim and value spokes

XR31, ACI spokes

haha, right

to be honest I have no idea where wheels are in terms of weight. I will get the scale out and weigh the current wheel to get a feel and do the math with the parts I have in mind.

I have been talking about MTB Hubs so lets say sturdy.