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• #21202
I'll be honest, I just wanted to post my stupid tattoo.
How does that work if I made a stupid post about saws?
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• #21203
Would it have been easier/simpler to put though a thickneser before assembly?
Having lifted scratched wood flooring, taken 1mm off to remove the marks then reinstalled then re varnished when installed properly. It was to make a point that the floor was poor and the instal was worse.
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• #21204
Ah, I know it's a radial arm saw. I was just wondering what year/model it is as I might as well spend the time before I get my hands on it finding manuals etc. I'm aware of the pros and cons of it.
This will be set up on a long table for crosscuts and making dado cuts on some products I'm doing, so no silly attempts at ripping or similar.
I have a small compound mitre saw for jobs outside the shop, which will probably do 90% of the work, but I think this will be good for increasing productivity on a few select tasks. -
• #21205
Yeah, the long setup time will be OK, as it will only be doing one or two different tasks. Having had a track saw (the Makita one without a riving knife) jump across my fingers when it grabbed on an oak tabletop made me very aware of how sloppy I'd been with hand placement and safety in general.
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• #21206
I clamped the first few pieces to make sure they were exactly in the right place.
The rest was just lots of glue and hand pressure, which is why I can’t really feel my thumbs still.
The only other thing I did was fix some of the overhanging edge bits in place with a nail gun to make sure they were even and tight.
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• #21207
Before I just use nails, is there a better/easier/more secure (and preferably still cheap) method/system for hanging pictures on walls? Magic hooks/adhesive of some kind?
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• #21208
what's the wall made of and how big are the pictures?
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• #21210
Might be worth looking into command strips, we have used them on a load of pictures recently and wouldn't go back to hooks, they fully stick them to the wall, so don't have to worry about the pictures going wonky all the time.
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• #21211
oh these look great, especially if they peel off nice and easy should things need to be moved - thank you!
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• #21212
Ah cool - as a fixed set up kinda thing it’s pretty good, and will be easier to rig up some kind of extraction around. Took us a while to work out: there’s no spindle lock, blade change needs a hex key in the spindle and spanner on the reverse thread lock nut.
Oh also, it’s a Dewalt Shopmaster, but I’m sure you worked that out.
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• #21213
At least the extraction port on the blade guard is on the rear. Looks like some models have it on the front.
And useful tips, thanks. Once I get a pic or look at the type plate, I'll be much wiser as to what exact model it is. I tried looking at vintage machinery.org, but couldn't find an exact match. -
• #21214
Yeah I saw people saying to do it but there wasn’t really anything to sand - all I’d be doing is making oily wood dust to stick to things. Unless that’s the point!
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• #21215
It takes ages. Maybe two or three weeks. Probably worth it in the end.
1 Attachment
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• #21216
Italian-German hybrid!
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• #21217
Fingers crossed that it's the best of both worlds and not the worst
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• #21218
Combi drill chat, again. Good shout? Seems like a good base to build on if I want to add other toys later on. edit - seems this is OOS in my local branches.
I assume the naming convention is purposely vague in this industry?
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• #21219
Max torque is a little low if you want it to do everything...
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• #21220
Yeah so this is where I'm clueless really. Don't have an immediate need for an impact driver but figured the two batteries would make adding a body only pretty straightforward. Is there a <£150 do it all combi drill from a decent brand with a decent battery platform, or is that a fanciful notion?
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• #21221
I think this is great value, but it’s not in stock everywhere. You’d pay more than that for 2 x 4amp 18v batteries and a charger either way.
There is no such thing as a does everything tool in my opinion. If you get something mega heavy duty, you’ll curse it’s size and weight when doing daintier jobs.
Buying a reasonable combi drill like that, then adding an impact driver will cover a lot of bases. If you want to drill into masonry lots, you’ll want a dedicated SDS anyway.
Choose something that suits what you’ll use it for most of the time. With a combi drill that’s usually drilling and screwing into wood - and that drill will be fine for that. -
• #21222
Thansk, I’ll stick it in the utility room and forget about it for a couple of weeks then.
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• #21223
https://www.screwfix.com/p/dewalt-dcd778m2t-sfgb-18v-4-0ah-li-ion-xr-brushless-cordless-combi-drill/979hf
That has more torque, but 100 minute charger is a bit of a bore. V reasonable at £150.
This from Milwaukee at £200
https://www.screwfix.com/p/milwaukee-m18-cblpd-402c-18v-4-0ah-li-ion-redlithium-brushless-cordless-combi-drill/702fhI’d say get brushless, as it does seem to make a noticeable difference.
I find that you often get a better deal on combi drills compared to other battery sets as those are usually what people buy first, and the manufactures try and make them as attractive as possible to get people to buy into their system.
I’m a Makita guy, but would probably go Milwaukee over Dewalt between the two, based on other battery tools I’ve used by those manufacturers.
it will eventually dry. it can take 1-2 more weeks.
sanding lightly between coats is a thing.