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It's a radial arm saw.

Basically the precursor of a modern chop saw, they were sold in the 50s as a single item workshop. It can also be used for ripping (not that you'd ever want to) amongst other things. Some people swear by them but I personally don't like them, they can however be useful if you build them into a bench for cutting repeated set lengths at 90 degrees.

This video explains some of their pros and cons better than I can:

https://youtu.be/AHRwN99fGCY

Personally I'd buy a cheap chop saw and spend the time setting it up and buy a really good blade for it (Freud are my preference).

We had a slightly older version of the same saw in the workshop, before the blade grabbed a work piece and went bang. A bit of cast alloy that makes up the body of the saw cracked in half, so we got a big Makita compound mitre saw to replace it.

Switching between angles / setups is a bit of a ballache and much slower than a modern mitre saw, but it will work perfectly well for most stuff. Wear a mask (always, of course) and expect your workshop to be covered in dust - extraction is non-existant. You could build a box around it, but this would limit easy of adjustability even more.

Be very careful of the blade grabbing and the saw jumping towards you. It probably won't do you any harm if your hands are in sensible places, but it'll destroy the piece and maybe itself.

Don't mean to be a downer, we used one for years with nothing but minor incidents, just be careful. They are good for chopping out cross lap joints.

i think matthias wandel likes a radial arm saw

he certainly doesn't use a modern chop saw

Not one of these but similar ta, bottom locks on double door mechanisms.

Cool, ta, I'll have a rummage now I know it has a name.

bottom locks on double door mechanisms

In which case its a shootbolt keep, which the shootbolt(s) engage into.

Some double French doors have single keeps for each side, whilst others have a double.
Theres probably one at the top of the door, which is inevitably in better condition to help finding an alternative.

Treat the shoot bolts and mechanism to a clean and drink of oil, as once there's a new keep in place you could end up with it getting jammed if its nearly seized.

This is really useful, huge thanks.

Anyone know how long Tung oil takes to dry and what the finish should look/feel like? I put 6 coats on some sapele (last one a week ago) and it still feels oily.

Polymerized or no?
: )

This stuff http://www.liberon.co.uk/product/pure-tung-oil/

Maybe coats too thick? Polymerized solves a lot of the issues with drying problems. Did you cut it with thinner or put it straight on? Super thin coats are the way to go with Tung oil.

First four coats with cut with thinner, last two were pure but wiped down and maintained through the week with more wiping. The finish isn’t tacky, it just seems that touching the wood draws out oil or something!

Yeah I don't know, I've only dealt with the other stuff because of these types of issues - after the first time anyway.
Being untreated oil I'd imagine it would release a little to the touch for a very long time.

What is the treated object?

It will be a shelf (to support a large mirror) - oilyness isn't the end of the world but I'd prefer it to be dry.

Extra smugness if you used one of those Japanese saws that only cut in one direction ;)

What, one of these?

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Love a radial arm saw, there's one in a workshop where I often work - bit mental as it's set up as a dedicated 90 deg crosscut, but having a long bench and stops makes so many jobs quicker.
Not sure I'd put one in my own workshop - but they definitely have a place.

Don't all saws only cut in one direction? Otherwise it's a file...

I'll be honest, I just wanted to post my stupid tattoo.

Hah, aye man. I like the kataba-gun

I'd worry the Mafell would get jealous, but it doesn't dabble in such weak emotions, teutonic efficiency only.

Just keep your white doilies off of it then, the ecru ones will be fine.

Looks great

How did you do the glueing, did you clamp it together at all?

files only work in one direction, too. you're not supposed to file on the backstroke cos it buggers the file.

file

My friends joked that I should get the MT55CC as my next tattoo, it's so absurd I'm half tempted.

might be able to get it milled professionally...

hard (not impossible) to do by hand.

I personally used a straight edge to fight high spots and a belt sander. took a few evenings. here it is before oil. its 8 feet long. down t0 500 grit

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