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The bolt is currently tightened into the crank by about 40nm, to confirm it won't take that much to unscrew it? I suppose it's already done the job of screwing the crank together...
I'm worried that I'll shear it by trying to unscrew it.I think it was my fault. The extractor cap wouldn't sit flush, despite being installed the same way it was taken apart. There's a small washer between the bolt and cap, which has always been in there and is preventing the cap from sitting flush.
miloas-
The bolt is currently tightened into the crank by about 40nm, to confirm it won't take that much to unscrew it?
It might take about that to start it, but once it moves the torque drops to about nothing since it's no longer loaded. In unscrewing, you're only loading the flanks of the hex, not the flange which broke off, so there's no problem there.
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There's a small washer between the bolt and cap, which has always been in there
The washer on the SRAM ones with the conical bolt head goes under the bolt, there shouldn't be a thrust washer between the bolt and extractor ring. The ones with a top hat bolt head use a thick washer under the bolt and a thin thrust washer between the bolt and the extractor ring
gbj_tester
You've already done the right thing by removing the extractor ring. The bolt will now come out easily. If you cracked it by trying to self-extract the crank, I don't suppose putting a fresh one in will advance your position very much
If you cracked it while installing the crank, then either the bolt was defective or your torque wrench needs recalibration..