Any question answered...

Do we have a tubulars for dummies thread or post?

There’s the tub thread. Been pretty quiet of late.

https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/127542/?offset=2500#comment15122201

Cyclocross bros are probably on the bleeding edge in terms of what works well - might be worth asking in the cross thread

Hive mind - what’s the website that @amey et al used to reference for groupset pricing - was it German? Or is there a newer version that anyone’s using/used?

Thank you!

What's a .pif?

Pitched for some remote work via People Per Hour. Ad seemed legit.

Had a response back from the person saying instead of paying per project they wanted to pay per hour and a link to a password protected zip file hosted here:
http://lm[] virtual[]bookkeeping[.]com

Downloaded zip (on a mac - .pif appears to be dos related from what I can gather but would like confirmation). Opened zip to find .pif in there.

Is it all an elaborate botnet/other scam?

Mug safe for drinkers and washers up now.

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Seems dodge.

Very - just wondering if unzipping it has opened me up viral / remote control fun. Can't actually appear to run the .pif on a mac but wonder if there was something else hidden inside the zip.

What a shit show PeoplePerHour continues to be.

You can try uploading the file to virustotal.com (unless you expect there to be sensitive information in the file)

Thanks - not come across that service before but looks useful for the future. Tried the link which was deemed safe but obviously the attachment once downloaded was a red flag. Just hopeful that unzipping what is a DOS architecture thing on macOS won't be an issue and also that there wasn't an additional file harmful to macOS that wasn't visible after the unzip. Have installed and scanned with Avast and seems clear for now. Don't know why I unzipped really (I do: it was late and I need the work).

Is 220gbp for a full DA 7900 groupset (sans BB)in good condition and two cassettes a good deal?

Yes.

7900

It's the worse-looking DA group but it's not a bad price.

Thanks @ColinTheBald and @Lolo I'm happy as long as it isn't flightdeck!

Cracked the sram gxp crank bolt about 3/5s of the way around. I haven't tried to unscrew it yet, am I fucked?

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am I fucked?

You've already done the right thing by removing the extractor ring. The bolt will now come out easily. If you cracked it by trying to self-extract the crank, I don't suppose putting a fresh one in will advance your position very much

If you cracked it while installing the crank, then either the bolt was defective or your torque wrench needs recalibration..

The bolt is currently tightened into the crank by about 40nm, to confirm it won't take that much to unscrew it? I suppose it's already done the job of screwing the crank together...
I'm worried that I'll shear it by trying to unscrew it.

I think it was my fault. The extractor cap wouldn't sit flush, despite being installed the same way it was taken apart. There's a small washer between the bolt and cap, which has always been in there and is preventing the cap from sitting flush.

The bolt is currently tightened into the crank by about 40nm, to confirm it won't take that much to unscrew it?

It might take about that to start it, but once it moves the torque drops to about nothing since it's no longer loaded. In unscrewing, you're only loading the flanks of the hex, not the flange which broke off, so there's no problem there.

It's almost that time again - I need new running shoes. Usually annoying enough, but a new question has arisen: what do I do with the old ones? They've lost their spring, but they are otherwise still in acceptable condition and could be used as gym shoes or normal shoes or whatever - but I already have more than one pair of shoes for that...

There's a small washer between the bolt and cap, which has always been in there

The washer on the SRAM ones with the conical bolt head goes under the bolt, there shouldn't be a thrust washer between the bolt and extractor ring. The ones with a top hat bolt head use a thick washer under the bolt and a thin thrust washer between the bolt and the extractor ring

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Done the obvious replacements of worn items,
courtesy of Corona SpareTime,
now,
onto upgrades.
I have these cranks, FSA Carbon Pro Team Octalink,
but not the 'bit' that would connect them.
Googlefoo weak this afternoon.
Am I searching for 'crank set axle' or some other term.
I'll also need the requisite bolts, and the dedicated tool?

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With Octalink the axle is part of the bottom bracket, so you need an Octalink BB. You'll also need some M15 Octalink crank bolts.

Thank you for that prompt reply,
and,
the lead to Octalink bbs.

This in turn will lead to the proposed acceptor bike coming out of the garage tomorrow
to assess the width of bb needed.

If it's a road bike then it'll be a 68mm BB shell unless it's Italian threading. I used to have a set of those FSA carbon triple cranks - never got round to fitting them - and I think you need a 118mm wide BB.

P.S IIRC there were two types of Octalink BB, one with short splines and one with long splines. You might want to measure the length of the splines on the cranks. I'm not an expert on Octalink by any means, however, so someone else may have some more detailed advice.

This sums it up fairly good

To be honest I don't understand why they didn't arrive at ISIS directly, maybe there's some engineering point with the shallow edges?

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