Home DIY

I don’t like these doors. All the internal doors have been replaced with these at some point, no doubt junking some nice original Victorian ones.

Shall I paint them? Where can I can get more attractive hardware?

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SDS?

I always use a 4” foam roller for Omso. Mainly planed oak / birch ply furniture though - could be annoying for nooks and crannies on stairs but defo the best application method. Once oil-soaked, 4” rollers keep for a long time of wrapped up properly in plastic. I actually use a washed out mini Innocent smoothy bottle to keep wet rollers in.

I want to attach this bit of scaffolding to the wall to use as a clothes rail. It’s pretty heavy. What sort of screws & wall plug combo should I use so it doesn’t fall out.

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Is it brick? Looks like a chimney breast? I’ve not used anything special for hanging all sorts on solid walls - just 5/6mm nylon plugs and corresponding sized screws.

Get a second opinion on here though, as I’m no expert!

Like this: https://www.toolstation.com/fischer-plastic-contract-wall-plug/p43414

https://www.toolstation.com/single-thread-countersunk-pozi-screw/p61567

Osmo recommend a microfibre roller so I tried that for the flooring and it ended up with a few patches where I'd over-applied.

I might go back to a roller for the anti-slip on the stairs though as I'm worried a cloth might affect its anti-slip properties which I assume is some sort of particle it contains.

Also @lemonade this one might be more obvious for stairs but check the drying time and be really sure you don't want to use them in that time.

We're going to use a product with 24 hours drying time so we're going to do every other stair one day and the others the next.

I don't know whether they will dry in the same way, but from having just teak-oiled some outside furniture with a brush (as per the instructions), I'd say definitely stick with a cloth. It's far easier to get a nice light, drip-free application.

Ah, particles. As you were.

Yes it’s brick, but not for chimney breast, was only holding it up there for demonstration. Managed to find these beefy screws and plugs left over from column radiators install, look like they should work.

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Some stainless steel countersunk screws would work with the added benefit that they will sit flush with the face of the mounting plate.

Yeah that was one thing that had occurred to me! No downstairs toilet in our house so probably gonna have to do alternate steps too.

What you also want to make sure of is that the hole you still for the plugs is a nice snug one, so make sure you've got a good condition drill bit.

If the rawl plug can move around in the hole then a heavy thing is more likely to pull it out/damage the plaster/wobble.

Can anyone recommend me a decent table saw for under £200? Von Haus 1800w any good?

Have this slightly unfortunate situation to deal with. Plant pot of soil was left on it for a week and stained the floor/ It's an engineered oak floor, brushed an oiled. Before I whip out the sand paper and see how that goes, does anyone have a gentler approach? Tried washing it with soap etc..

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Apparently mayonnaise works.

And that's not even a joke, it's supposed to be really good for water marks on wood and furniture. Smear it on, leave it for a bit, and then wipe it off and clean again.

Sauce: https://lifehacker.com/remove-water-stains-from-wood-furniture-with-mayonnaise-1728675740

Depends what you are going to use it for and how accurate you need to be.

Feeding full sheets of sheet material through a table saw can be dangerous, especially with a table that small. Generally speaking these days until you buy a very expensive table saw with a carriage to support its considered best practice to take the saw to the sheet material (plunge saw or circular saw running on a track).

As far as ripping and dimensioning timber goes, in order to do this accurately you need a good fence. From what I can see from the pictures this is the saws biggest issue. In order to get good accuracy you need a fence that is solid and remains parallel to the blade (a fence that comes out of parallel can also be a MAJOR safety issue if the riving knife is removed), the one on that saw clamps only at the front and looks flimsy.

That Von Haus table saw appears to have some decent specs but I'd have reservations and think that this is a better small saw although it is over your budget.

Sauce:

#rep

Was going to say - give the Evolution stuff a look at that budget range.
Tenner cheaper at Screwfix (CPC price doesn't include VAT).
https://www.screwfix.com/p/evolution-rage5-s-255mm-electric-table-saw-230v/9045v

That saw has all the features of a £500 DeWalt or Bosch site saw (£600 - £700) if you include an equivalent stand. It's pretty incredible value.

As far as I can see the only small drawback is, as with all things evolution, it's got a weird bore diameter so will only accept evolution blades which don't give quite as good a finish as say Freud blades. Nothing a couple of mins with a plane or sandpaper can't fix.

I'd be tempted to go with masonry screws if it's going into brick. It's not very clear exactly what's happening since you have those T-pieces that look like they're attaching to the ceiling. If they're not going to be screwed up into a joist then I'd be pretty concerned about just wall-mounting that as it looks heavy (especially when it's covered in clothes) and the mounting plates that will fit it to the wall are small, which means lots of leverage pulling it out.

The T pieces will hold a shelf once I get the plywood delivered.

The hooks are or hats.