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Thanks that's really helpful.
Yes it's a fence panels, but tongue and groove and the other side is very far from the lovely flat surfaces on the side you can see.
Follow up questions:
- Anyone got any good tricks for screwing batons onto brick walls level without the holes "walking" and moving the battons out of level?
- Anyone got any masonry drill bit recommendations, that aren't too expensive? I've been resorting to using some spare tile bits followed up with my slightly blunt and hard masonry bits.
- Anyone got any good tricks for screwing batons onto brick walls level without the holes "walking" and moving the battons out of level?
hugo7-
Hold the baton in place level and drill through it with a wood drill bit just enough to mark the hole. Drill the hole with a masonry bit and hammer the screw in a rawlplug through the batten into the hole. This has worked for me for skirting - but obviously skirting is less susceptible to moving.
I got some Dewalt bits from Toolstation that aren't round at the chuck so don't spin and they've worked really well.
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As you place the Baton hammer some nails to hold the baton in pace
So you might need to draw a line first so you know where to place the nails
tbc
musa
How about:
2 of the 30x20 430mm lengths, as side battens positioned to the front of the depth. There would be c.130mm unsupported depth in the back corners of the shelf...
BUT
1 of the 20mm MDF lengths as a crossways batten across the full (well 860mm of 880mm) width of the space, on the back wall, so that unsupported area would be small and you're unlikely to put huge weight right in the corners?
Cut the stained fencing panel (?) to width of 880mm, leaving the 40x40 edging piece on as the front of the shelf. Attach to the 3 battens on the wall, and screw the 40x40 into the side battens to help prevent sag in the centre.
Edit: this assumes the panel is a) deep enough to serve as the shelf and b) capable of being cut down without falling apart)
Awaiting critique...