Any question answered...

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  • Magnets will possibly tell if the item is actually bigger than the hole, as long as itโ€™s ferrous.

  • Frame saver, Dinitrol, Waxoyl or similar should stick it in place and will also stop the top tube corroding. Chances are it's a bit of brass left over from brazing, so anything that will dissolve that is going to be bloody unpleasant stuff and will cause the frame to fall apart when it dissolves the brass holding the frame tube and lugs together.

  • What website-building/maintaining service/platform (like squarespace, cargo etc.) is best/cheapest
    if my goal is to have a very basic site (rather text heavy) which will only get updated once in a while?
    Something I could whip up in HTML actually but truth be told I am too old for this shit now.

  • I have a sram red exogram chainset thats missing the hidden bolt. anyone know what that bolt is and where i could find one?

    a standard chainring bolt seems to small....


    1 Attachment

    • 2012-SRAM-Red-crankarm-cutaway.jpg
  • Exogram bolt kits can be bought as a spare part from SRAM dealers, or compatible kits are widely available. You're unlikely to find the odd 5th bolt on its own.

    If it's a standard M8x0. 75 thread, the Campag one probably fits, and I'm sure I have at least a couple of those in my parts bin

  • thanks! helped me find this from sjs:

    https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/chainsets/sram-red-aluminium-hidden-chainring-bolt-kit-black-pack-of-5/

    Which seems to have the bolt i need. ยฃ25 though! Stone the crows, thats half what I paid for the crankset.

    If that hidden bolt looks the same as the Campag ones and youre happy to post one to me, Id be totally happy to send some quids your way or to charity!

  • If that hidden bolt looks the same as the Campag ones and youre happy to post one to me

    It looks the same, but apparently I lied about having spares. I have a bin full of chainring bolts, and two UltraTorque chainsets with single-ring bolts in them, but I don't know where the long hidden bolts went ๐Ÿ™

    BikeDiscount have original SRAM kits for ยฃ20.74 posted, which is a start ๐Ÿ™‚

  • Is it better and more efficient (time and money) to just sell the barely used FSA Comet Double and get a new/used 1x MTB chainset (30 or 32T) for my wife's 1x conversion or use the existing cranks with a narrow/wide chainring?

    Cheers

  • Hey all!

    Shimano rd330, I think an old acera X rear mech, is this 8 speed compatible?

  • ^^ I'd just get a new chainring.

    ^ Yes.

  • I'm looking for Hammered paint in that classic workshop machinery turquoise colour. Hammerite called it Mid Green but they don't do it any more and you can't buy it.

    Has anyone seen similar available? Perhaps by a different brand?
    Rustoleum do one but i can't find that available either

  • better and more efficient (time and money)

    Just tell her to stop using the FD. Zero cost, works great ๐Ÿ˜€

  • Yes, she's well-known for doing exactly as she's told/asked/advised/begged!

  • Hammerite green for the texture then over-spray with Halfords best match for colour?

  • Hammerite green for the texture then over-spray with Halfords best match for colour?
    Double post because Windows 10 is increasingly vindictive.

  • Would that work? Apparently the "texture" is only aesthetic and it's actually a smooth finish

  • Don't do it that way. You can only paint Hammerite onto Hammerite. Anything else will react with it.
    Try this sage green.....
    https://www.paints4trade.com/hammer-finish---hammerite-type-paint-2605-p.asp

  • It used to work with the 'old' formulation (xylene based solvent I think) with a thin coat of cellulose paint - I'm going back to the 80s, and I'm fairly sure the modern version is more environmentally friendly and much derided by anyone who has to use it.

    As I remember it, the whole point of Hammerite was you could use it on less than perfect surfaces (some rust and dodgy prep) and build up a thick coating by applying on an extra coat every 20 minutes or so. The hammered finish was almost an orange peel texture which covered / distracted from pitting and surface corrosion - more functional repair than aesthetic finish.

    What you need to test the (ok, my) theory is someone with time, a tin of Hammerite and a rattlecan. The level of 'hammered' finish depends on thickness and drying temperature (I think) and there may be issues with solvent compatibility that will need checking. I've looked in my stash - only Smoothrite I'm afraid, which wouldn't help regarding texture.

    Rustoleum do a 'Pewter' hammered finish - being realistic it might be a case of using that as near match in tone, or Hammerite green as a similar hue / colour?

  • Maybe a tin of dark green and a tin of silver mixed together could produce something close

  • Looks a bit more green than turquoise but again maybe I could mix that and a tin of blue to get the right effect

  • I painted a frame I had modified with the blue paint here. You can get similar paints on ebay if you look around

  • Page refresh fail (and slow typing) on my part!
    I remember it as adequate if the final coat was a light one - but this was in the previous century!
    Modern alchemy will be different.

  • That blue does look close. Have you got a picture of the finished paint job?

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Any question answered...

Posted by Avatar for carson @carson

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