Home DIY

No, it's quite a small 65l one. But yes, a it's specifically designed for out buildings/low temps. The 85l one is 84 x 54.5 x 59.5 cm and would prefer to save that little bit of space over the extra liters.

So should I just be using 1.5mm²?

Will be going here:

Which I need to get a move on, tidy and build some sort of wall support frame thingy to mount a work surface to.

Annoyingly I'd done a reci of the old fence posts I have and had enough to knock up a rough work bench in the main part, but I think they now need to be allocated to this worktop project.

I've never had luck with studfinders since we live in a house that is plaster over lath, the two cheaper ones that I've purchased get confused easily. One even claimed to have a deep setting, nope.

cheers huge.

it's just a normal shed. nothing more to see here

is there any issue with overspecing the lead by using 2.5mm² 3 Core?

Not really but it can be a bit of a sod fitting the cable into 13A plugs and extension sockets. I'd just stick with 1.5mm cable personally as the voltage drop isn't likely to be an issue.

Tomorrow I should be receiving:

• A circular saw
  
• Osmo wood wax oil and Polyx oil
  
• Another Osmo oil from a different supplier
  
• A floor sander and edging sander on hire
  
  

What a day

Shiplap boards

If the speed can be modulated further via the trigger, go slower on the low speed setting. With a fresh bit and cutting oil, and firm pressure. I went through a few bits drilling into 3mm stainless until I found the sweet spot.

Good to know, seems to be single layer plasterboard here but I'll definitely get one I can return easily.

Neighbours need a bigger wheelbarrow.

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Nearly done.

Ready for one more mind-numbing but ultimately reasonable satisfying day tomorrow.

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You do know that fully fitted carpets are the thing nowadays?

If you pull those boards up you might find some gorgeous vintage fitted carpets lurking underneath...

Yes, I've spent a long time ripping them out.

Today's task was to reinforce/repair our fridge cheese drawer.
Same problem that @boredom had - I used Gorilla Super Glue along the exposed crack lines and No More Nails to glue in the dowel.
Time will tell.
edit - you're looking at the underside of the drawer

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False nail glue kit works well.

What’s that?

The much vaunted Osmo is now available locally (to me), very interested in trying this product out at some point.

I love it.

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Hi knowledgeable DIY people,
I've removed the sky dish and other assorted random redundant cables off the front of the house.
There were 4 large bolts and rawl plugs drilled into the stucco. What's the preferred method for filling holes in external plaster?

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What's the best way to level off the loosely compressed soil and rubble in my cellar so I can lay down large concrete paving slabs, pictured? Assuming bags of sand may be involved...

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best way

To rent an earth compactor.

Sorry, probably not the answer you wanted.

To level off find a YouTube video to best explain it, but basically a bit of wood and a spirit level.

Still trying to work out the best way of making a counter top for above the out door freezer.

I've got ~75x75mm posts which although nice and beefy, seem overkill. Also because I'm limited on other appropriate wood they'd need to be screwed in to the wall. Even counter sinking them halfway would require quite long screws which I need to order.

I've got some 20mm MDF. If that was screwed to the wall, what sort of weight could you put on top of a counter placed on that?

Any weight that the plasterboard fixings can handle, the point where it's fixed to the plasterboard would be the weakest link.

Maybe you are not getting many answers because there are so many ways to do it and you are going to have to make compromises based on the material you have to hand. If we had you inventory listed then between us we could come up with the best solution but there are so many possibilities.

If you have decent size pieces of the Mdf then you can spread the fixing point and you can also screw batons onto the Mdf from the wall side through to the batten which would give you a wider support. If you have enough you could use strips of Mdf resting on the floor and lightly screwed to the walls since supporting the weight of the shelf + booze is your main concern.

@Mishk

I would have serious concerns about running a whacker plate or tree trammer in that basement for a whole host of reasons the headlines being:

1. That looks like a Victorian terrace, you don't know the quality of the foundations and DO NOT want to fuck them up. Compacting machines have the potential to do this.
   
2. They are heavy and will be hard to get down/up the stairs.
   
3. They tend to be driven by internal combustion engines - not good in confined spaces.
   
   

The soil should be pretty stable so I'd leave it be. You'll need:

1. Lots of sharp sand.
   
2. The biggest rubber mallet you can find.
   
3. Either a laser level and 2 foot level (preferable) or a 6 foot level and a 2 foot level.
   
   

How I would do it:

1. Using either the laser or big level find the highest point of the existing floor. This is your starting point.
   
2. Put some sand on the floor and get it roughly level then place a slab on top. You want the slab to be sitting so there is a good "margin" of sand around it.
   
3. Check how level of the slab is with the smaller level and adjust it using the rubber mallet. If one side needs to go down, give it a whack on that side, same with corners etc. then give the slab a couple of goo whcks in the middle to seat it
   
4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 working out from your starting point, periodically checking the level of the whole floor with the laser (or big level).
   
   

I'm sure @Colin_the_Bald can give you some better advice on laying paving slabs.

Cheers.

When Mini-H goes down I'll write a bit of a list.

It's a brick wall - but only single course(sp?).