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OG:
Using this stuff I had lying around, found it's only really effective when applied and left for multiple hours/ overnight - not the high octane shit of yesteryear
First full coating:
Revealed a gold-ish finish underneath which is cool but this will come away by the time the paint is stripped fully.
Paint stripper had minimal effect on the fork finish so that will be wet and dry sanded which I think I read on here.
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90% there, took a scouring pad to it for the last blast, not delighted with the scratchy finish so may address that via a different method when taking the last remnants off.
First of the AliExpress carbon has arrived, very light as expected and appears to be well finished.
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• #4
Those decals really insist upon themselves, ha.
Are you going for a bare metal finish? -
The fork isn’t Carbon blades is it? I’m sure someone more knowledgeable than me could comment, but I didn’t think they mixed well with paint stripper.
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@Squaredisk Yeah, that's the paint under the decals that obviously didn't get any exposure to the paint stripper. Thought it looked a bit interesting at first but yeah the finish will be uniformly raw metal. I may treat the frame with some engine oil and some heat (left in front of a space heater or similar), I used to do this when stripping old BMX frames to raw finish to keep them rust free, the oil seeps into the pores of the metal and it used to give a cool finish. Obviously it's more oxidisation than rust in this case that would be the issue.
@cheekysnaker it is yeah. The paint stripper didn't make it through the paint anywhere on the fork so never actually interacted with the carbon. Wet&dry it is or I've seen some people chip the paint off with a razor blade. Will see.
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This will do for now.
Cranks
Wheels. Tires will be Tufo S33 Pro
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So I did a thing that I used to do when I stripped the paint off old BMX (steel) frames and wanted a raw finish, apply a film of engine oil, leave it in the sun and let it seep into the pores of the metal. It worked better than any clearcoat I ever used (which never worked at all) at keeping rust away. Alu won't rust but hopefully it has a similar effect in just keeping oxidisation or whatever at bay.
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I also hit it with the Dremel with a wire brush head to try and get a bit more of the black paint off the frame. It's a really thick, tough finish.
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This is what i used. It, at best, loosened the paint/ powder/ whatever finish that Pre Cursas have. Tonnes of abrasion required. As referenced before don't expect the effects of old formula Nitromors where you just rub the finish off with a cloth and it just flakes off. It's a pig of a job if you want a good finish, which isn't what I'd call the finish I've got here. I didn't think of measuring the weight saving but I don't have the means to measure it accurately anyway.
The hanging on the washing line in the sun method shown above actually failed and gouged the headtube and bottom bracket nicely. I thought I'd pull the curtain back and give that warts n' all feel to this build.
Tubs on
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Where we're at
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Hopefully will see a track at some point!
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Few more bits to do but coming together.
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Nice build. I think uou've made something ordinary quite extraordinary. I like the concept, looks fast as fuck!
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Must be around 7.5kg looks neat.
Squaredisk
cheekysnaker
bjf
Josh01
poorman
EcuriePeril
billygoat8
Dexter-
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About
Stripped Back Pre Cursa Race Build
Posted by
@spunk_nautical
Got my hands on a 54cm Pre Cursa frameset which I want to build for the upcoming season at the local track. Aim is to build it with minimal outlay, using some existing parts and trying to keep weight down.
Wheels are 50mm Strada carbon rims laced to an American Classic high flange on the back and a high flange DT swiss on the front both laced with Sapim CX Rays. Using a set of Sugino 75s I have already. Finishing kit will be the Orient's finest unbranded carbon.
Going to strip the frame and forks and keeping everything unbranded where possible so hopefully it will look a bit more interesting than the usual PC builds.