Audiophiles hifi appreciation thread old and new

Under budget! Now how to I go and audition under lockdown?

Buy on Amazon and return if you don't like it.

The Krix acoustics are pretty decent speakers, sensitivity is pretty good (89dB) so I would think a bit more about why you need to push them hard to get the sound you're looking for. If you can fix that (positioning, porting), then something like the SMSL DP3 would probably be perfect for you.

My first thought is that the Krix acoustics have only 5" drivers. I used to own a pair of Missions with similar specifications/design and they were very directional, they only filled the room at loud volumes. You could try swapping them out for something with a bigger driver. Perhaps find a dealer who will let you audition some speakers?

Alternatively, if your partner will let you, switch out the amp to an AV amp and add rear and center speakers.

If that wont fly, I'd keep your existing setup, adding a chromecast or network player, and separately buy a sonos sound bar and a couple of sonos play speakers for lower volume listening and movies.

see of you can get one of these:
https://www.quad-hifi.co.uk/vena-ii-play/
from these guys:
https://avrevolution.com.au/quad-vena-2.html
I haven't heard the streaming version, but the vena II is excellent for the money

then sell the krix and buy some fucking huge tannoys.

[copy & paste response]

https://www.google.com/shopping/product/1?q=tannoy+xt6f&client=ms-android-h3g-gb&biw=360&bih=518&tbs=vw:l,ss:44&prmd=sivn&sxsrf=ALeKk0195C6aPImOkyEr1DgeBxOmjCB1nQ:1586955958318&prds=num:1,of:1,epd:17795652517581077293,paur:ClkAsKraXzCI6MOFdIts9Uh53QKT78-Lri_LTlWIPn7shRFh-_zx2CVb5lYRfv6wHbPBzs-LdcYlIBFqw1Z0y18DeHjqgCdjNfmswnzFOLThSNx42BVcddDeAhIZAFPVH72wanAX_YP4lVYxiVrbdQh-QWiGlQ,prmr:1,pid:17795652517581077293,cs:1

get out.

?

Further to this issue, I don't think it's actually the stereo itself, unless it's extra sensitive because the pops always happen in relation to other things happening in the house, like when then the furnace or drain pump or fridge start/stop. So basically I think our house is wired badly, or improperly grounded. To be clear, it didn't start after the repair, it just seemed to happen with more regularity and volume. We also switched receivers, with the HK now upstairs and the NAD down in the vault.

Things like motors in hoovers should be suppressed but often they do seem to dump a bit bit of noise on the mains. I have a record vacuum cleaner that does it. If I'm recording I have to make sure not to use it. I might get round to making a suppressor for it if the lockdown goes on for another month.

We rarely hoover as most of our carpets are just shaken outside, and I'm afraid disconnecting my mentioned devices is not an option.
What is this "Making a supressor" you speak of?

What is this "Making a supressor" you speak of?

1 Attachment

There are two kinds of transient suppressor, and you should probably have both.

1. Switched inductive loads (mostly motors in a domestic environment) generate transients, and these should be suppressed at source with what amounts to a high pass filter bridging the switch contacts, which is usually the control switch itself but also the commutator in the case of commutated motors.
   
2. Equipment will receive power line transients from equipment on the local network, but also from events far upstream on the distribution network e.g. lightning strikes. Sensitive (because delicate, or because transients affect the signals in an annoying way) equipment should be protected from these by using a transient suppressor between the mains power network and the equipment power inlet. These can be bought commonly as either mains plugs or socket-strip extension leads.
   

To me, sounds like an amplifier fault. You want the power supply in your amp to deal with this.

I once bought a DIY valve amp from someone, massive two box thing. Every time the fridge thermostat ticked over, you heard it out of the speakers. I bought a Meridian amp and this problem simply didn't exist (in the same house, with the same wiring and fridge).

To be on the safe side, when I had this place rewired I had a separate circuit put in for the hifi.

Thanks, won’t be making one though.
We have a Panamax power strip which was considered okay at the time but clearly is falling down on its job these days.

To be on the safe side, when I had this place rewired I had a separate circuit put in for the hifi.

We thought this was done when we moved in also (in 1991) but seeing the rest of the job done by my FiL's gang, I'm guessing they fucked up that as well.

Recommendation for a decent brand of power strip?

Thanks @freddo - attaching a networked Digi box the existing equipment is an option too. I am trying to minimise wires and boxes though.

No need for surround sound either, I decided a long time ago that all you need is a decent stereo. I filled my first apartment with speakers and ended watching movies to exploit the system, not for movie quality!

Yep, this time it's simplicity and minimal.

@BRM I'll look into the quad. Maybe that'd drive the krix better. Although it slipped my mind but I I have a pair of tannoys in a box, brought back from London. Midsize bookshelves... Not sure what model. Not a concentric driver but a small mid and tweeter setup. Going to be fun finally unboxing that stuff.

You want the power supply in your amp to deal with this

Yes, any decent power supply and most indecent ones should be able to suppress simple domestic motor switching transients.

Recommendation for a decent brand of power strip?

The suppressed ones I've been using for the past couple of decades are Masterplug
Belkin should be OK too

I was very surprised to be getting a problem from the hoover motor in the RCM.

It's not like I'm using a lot of esoteric gear. I do have a homemade phono amp though.

Thanks for that.

Most of the ones available around here brag about the level of joule protection though the one you linked to from Masterplug is only rated to 370 compared to 1000 or more on most of the ones I've seen. Apparently it's hard to judge the efficacy of that rating outside the lab though.
Our Panamax still shows green lights for surge protection and grounding so I guess it's ok?

I have a Sonos Connect Gen:1 up for sale.

Due to the recent announcements at Sonos, I took the plunge and upgraded one of my two Connects to a Port. This leaves me with this one spare so, here it is. I'm looking for just £65 for it.

It has either stero line out or coax digital out and can take a stereo line in. (If you want to plug in a turntable you will need a phono stage.)

You can use the line out in fixed mode, to feed a pre-amp; or in variable volume mode, using the Connect as a preamp. I have done both and both worked very well.

You can use the digital out to feed a DAC, which is what I do with my main hifi setup (which I am keeping, and will have as an independent Sonos System*). In this mode it sounds really very good.

n.b - It is not going to get any further upgrades from Sonos and any network of Sonos kit that it is part of will not receive any upgrades. It will work happily stand alone, or separate from a newer Sonos system in the same house. More details available on the Sonos website.

(* I have a Sonos Beam sound bar in the same room, which I can use for grouping radio around the house or whatever. I may upgrade the Connect to a Port in the future, or use the trade in to get a Move.)

Grab a bargain.

Very tempted by this. If I get Roon or Tidal or something can I add it as a source in Sonos and get uncompressed super quality out? (digital coax > DAC [would need to buy] > preamp)

Anyone want to buy our Play:5 gen 1 that's currently being used only as a line out? £120

.