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Dogs-
Thanks. As lovely as it is, i'm not sure it could ever replace a true road bike. Riding this and then riding my Capo are almost two different sports.
I've been thinking about the suspension though. I think 50/60mm would be the sweetspot, as the "dive" at 80mm can be bit unerving, particularly with the high saddle.
Does anyone know if there is a way to reduce the travel or stiffen the last part of the stroke. There are no volume reducers to buy, but I've heard of putting thick gear oil into air chambers to achieve a similar result. What do the hive mind think to trying that?
Scrabble
I do indeed, though Howard is the forum old Cannondale mountain bike guru. @platypus - Generally, it's like buying a new Cannondale, but with the frustrations over proprietory equipment and reliability issues squared.
The F numbers are something to do with how fast they go, so getting higher numbers is betterer. That's why I went for a F1000.
The newer headshock forks (Ultra DL /DLR) you can still get the bits for. The older ones are getting rarer and internals are not interchangeable as they changed the tpi of the threads.
I absolutely love mine The frame is older, early 2000s, but the forks are the newer variety (2015?).
This year it's got Ritchey Venturemax bars and wide rims which have transformed the handling. It is so much fun. Anyone that says 'just ride a proper mountain bike" is wrong and I will fight them. I have a proper mountain bike for mountain biking, but smashing about bridleways and local woods, linked with gravel tracks, b roads and anything else, this is the max smiles per mile.
This was it this morning in the woods.