seager-
I do indeed, though Howard is the forum old Cannondale mountain bike guru. @platypus - Generally, it's like buying a new Cannondale, but with the frustrations over proprietory equipment and reliability issues squared.
The F numbers are something to do with how fast they go, so getting higher numbers is betterer. That's why I went for a F1000.
The newer headshock forks (Ultra DL /DLR) you can still get the bits for. The older ones are getting rarer and internals are not interchangeable as they changed the tpi of the threads.
I absolutely love mine The frame is older, early 2000s, but the forks are the newer variety (2015?).
This year it's got Ritchey Venturemax bars and wide rims which have transformed the handling. It is so much fun. Anyone that says 'just ride a proper mountain bike" is wrong and I will fight them. I have a proper mountain bike for mountain biking, but smashing about bridleways and local woods, linked with gravel tracks, b roads and anything else, this is the max smiles per mile.
This was it this morning in the woods.
You are reading a single comment by @seager and its replies.
Click here to read the full conversation.
Scrabble
I have become interested in Cannondale MTB frames, after I saw two beautiful ones two days running
More specifically the 26" wheel rim brake headshok variety
Please could someone enlighten me on the difference between the F400, F600, F800, F1000, and F2000 models. I'm assuming more numbers are better?
Lastly, is the headshok reliable / a pig to work with on these models?