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• #125852
😙👌
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• #125853
Is that a gap in the bartape though?
Yes, and I DGAF. I'm not holding that bit of the bar 🙂
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• #125854
WIP.
Need to get the stuck post out and a new BB but other than that shes okay.
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• #125855
So choice
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• #125856
This looks great
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• #125857
I remember watching this video on the same issue of a stuck seatpost: (great build btw)
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• #125858
Oh nice one. Ill see if im able to get any this weekend (highly unlikely)
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• #125859
Took my lockdown project for my mandated 1hr this afternoon, I normally ride a carbon full sus x.c bike but wanted something a bit burlier that i can use for bikepacking after the lockdown. Inspired by @edscoble i got the frame, then parts binned it. Once on-one restock their jones bar copy i will put some of those on. Looking at bags and gear now.
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• #125860
Mine is aluminium on aluminium so I assume it's worse off than carbon/alu etc.
Im going to buy some drain cleaner tomorrow to see if that works, if not its caustic soda. (Which may kill my frame too though)
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• #125861
I wouldn’t put caustic soda anywhere near an aluminium frame
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• #125862
Maybe unrelated, but I eventually removed a bb (steel) from it’s shell (alu) by dosing it regularly over weeks with WD40 (I know there’s better products out there, but it’s generally good enough) and periodically giving it a try. One day it just let go.
Now my bud who owns the frame decides he has other plans... -
• #125863
WFH situation means riding this over lunch breaks. After a few months off due to knee problems, it's nice to be back on a proper bike.
All this time in quarantine and there's definitely a hole burning in my pocket. I'm thinking of getting some new chainrings, seemingly Extralite rings are shite, and BOR/Tune chainrings are nowhere to be found.
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• #125864
Mine is aluminium on aluminium so I assume it's worse
Definitely the worst of all possible worlds. Don't even think about chemistry, you'll either have no effect or you'll destroy the frame first as it has the thinner walls.
The seat post is toast if you want to save the frame. Depending on how far gone it is, the frame might be toast too. What you need to do is machine away the seat post from the inside out. The "big machine" method is a horizontal boring mill. Since the seat post is round and straight, it would be a fairly easy set up to get the frame on the table with the seat post coaxial with the spindle, the main caveat being to remind the machinist just how thin the wall of the tube is before he puts too much gronk on the workholding solution. Once you have it held in the right place relative to the tool, it's just a matter of taking light cuts with a boring bar until the hole is the same diameter as the seat post was. If you're left with a shiny bare metal bore, you've won. If there's still a fair bit of powdery crap in the bore before you break through to actual seat tube metal, you've just wasted your time 🙂
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• #125865
Yeah hold on, let me go the garage and start the machine right up!!
Looking at the condition of the rest of the frame i recon its in for good. Im going to try some chemicals first as this frame owes me nothing and its worth a shot.
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• #125866
its worth a shot.
It’s really not. Buy some plusgas or other penetrating fluid and soak it repeatedly from the inside, upside down.
Trying to melt it out with caustic soda is a dead certain frame ender. -
• #125867
Im going to try some chemicals first
I still wouldn't.
While an HBM is the optimal time saving tool, tester's law of subtractive manufacture says you can achieve the same result with hand tools and sufficient time.
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• #125868
New wheels for the Ron. I've been toying with something more modern (and bling) since a spoke went ping on my traditional box-section wheels last year, and this Hunt pair came up on the forum so I thought why not.
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• #125869
spoke went ping on my traditional box-section wheels last year, and this Hunt pair came up on the forum so I thought why not
This is why not:
https://www.lfgss.com/comments/15187346/incontext/
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• #125870
I'll let you know how I get on!
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• #125871
Too much time to check the internet for used bike stuff and suddenly I own a Piolet frameset. Quickly built up, still need a front brake adapter, longer gear cable and longer chain.
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• #125872
Looks good and nice photo's too! How does it handle?
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• #125873
Thoughts on cable routing? Finally got around to setting up the brakes today, but the rear cable routing I think could be neater.
I'd like to use the bridge to bring the cable in closer. Any neat ideas for using the bridge cable runner to hold the outer in position?
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• #125874
That’s for cantilever brakes.
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• #125875
tiny zip ties, through the guide round the cable?
new 6403 front caliper
DSCF9036[1] by Vaast Javanne