Home DIY

There seem to be two schools of thought here - adhesives that are fairly benign and that come away easily with a bit of heat, and then the one that Porsche decided to use which is a bastard.

It could be Hi Pur which is technically a hot melt adhesive but much higher performing than the stuff that I played around with in CDT at school. It is used in construction and manufacturing because it will set in either 10 or 3o seconds and the bond will continue to grow in strength over the next 24 hours. Once at full strength the bond
is VERY strong and hard to break even with heat.

Anyone used luxury vinyl tile (LVT) click-fit systems? Been looking at flooring choices for the kitchen and it seems the easiest DIY option.

Will be going over floorboards with a underlay to smooth out the small imperfections. No mucking around with subflooring and latex screed, seems a perfect solution. Looking at £30-40 a square metre.

Or the bodge of flashbend and roof sealant then a little hammering.

Would I be ok to use toupret to cover the roofs wall plate that’s visible in the upstairs room. Removed the wallpaper and some fixtures which pulled The old plaster - it had not bonded at all and I was wondering if I can just fill it. Or foam then fill

A picture would be useful.

They are pretty good and your budget is right. I've never put them straight onto floorboards though. Usually cut the floorboards up and use 18mm ply.

I used the Marmoleum click fit tiles, they’re very high quality and very easy to work with.

Here. Ceiling is lath and plaster hence the cracks I reckon

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I'm fairly sure it's been boarded out already when the previous vinyl was put down (from the areas I can see) so should be straightforward.

Cheers, I'll check them out.

I used some quick step livyn in our downstairs toilet. Doing great even though I didn't get the floor perfectly flat. I'm using an underlay (and have loads of that spare if you can get to Enfield)

The picture resolution is very low, I know this site is tricky to post pictures on though!

It looks like a good candidate for lining paper, especially if the ceiling is moving a lot. At least plasterers scrim or the flexible Toupret with their fine scrim over the crack, feathered out into the rest of the ceiling with tx110.

Can't really see the condition of the wall from the photo.

I’ve reuploaded it. If not better I’ll take one later.

The wall condition isn’t best but plaster hasn’t blown. It was lined and wallpaper previously. I’ve just painted it white for the time being.

It's better. I would try to get some plasterboard on the underlying wood. Maybe cut out a regular shape first and screw the plaster board to the joist. Then it would depend on movement in the surrounding area, if the rest of the plaster is solid up to the joist just skim the plasterboard, maybe use some jointing scrim on the edges. I would recommend lining on top of that though.

Apologies if I making it sound like a piece of plasterboard would be the easiest thing to get hold of these days. You might find some small abandoned pieces outside building sites or in a skip.

Just confirmed my initial thinking at the time. Had a plasterer come round to have a look. The whole side of the house is like that.
I think I might just tackle it in my own. So I’ll just need plasterboard screws and scrim tape

I’ll try skim it myself. Any recommendations as to what I can use?

Thanks for the offer but I'm in Leeds and Hancock wouldn't be pleased about a trip that long.

You'd have to run a pretty big gear to get here and back in an hour

You can use multi finish plaster (the pink stuff). It works well with plasterboard. It does need a certain touch to finish it properly though. You can use the multi finish and leave a fairly rough finish then use TX110 and sand the whole lot, coat it with Gardz and paint or line and paint. If you're lucky with the plasterboard thickness matching the gap then you could use scrim tape and TX110 or a softer filler like easy fill, I would prefer TX110 as long as I wasn't using big quantities.

Me again!

Today's annoying enquiry is about removing a hearth and putting floorboards above it.

Here's a video of someone doing it:

https://youtu.be/n87liO4Vfxg

Is this a good method, laying the boards directly on top of the flattened hearth rubble?
What is it they're using on top of it to stick them down?

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I cant help with the flooring questions, but I'd be wary of ways for damp to wick across there. (I'm a bit of a one track minded broken record in that respect)

Is there a DPC under there?

It's on the first floor above the kitchen and dining room so I was hoping that wouldn't be too much of an issue for me.

Would some sort of membrane between the concrete and boards help though?

Ok folks.. first woodworking project about to kick off so thought I'd best sense check it as I have literally zero idea what I am doing.
So this is phase 1 of my bin storage, the frame. Once this is done I will work out doors and top but wanted to see if I get get half way before trying to win the race.

Does this diagram actually make sense to anyone?

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We've just done the same. Has your arrived and is it worth it?

Stripping doors, frames, stairs seems like an easy option task at the moment which will hopefully avoid the repeated B&Q trips we end up doing for other bits. Progress from yesterday.

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Your right there. It an an art to get a smooth finish one time so using the overfill and sand method

Getting the right size of pb is where it’ll difficult. It’s about the half the size at the top of the wall to bottom of wall plate as the brick sticks out. I’ll figure it out

Thanks as always