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• #7653
Me too. The audio note iq3 is supposed to be special too. Lots of £££ though
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• #7654
I need to get both of my Arcams repaired, second hand ebay isn't always cheaper!
I was thinking of a Class T amp, for the period they will be away being repaired. Any suggestions on one? For the Tannoy DC I have.
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• #7655
Personally, I like the power multi plugs with USBs as there are ALWAYS tons of 3 pin plug requirements esp with audio and/or PCs.
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• #7656
Those things tend to be cheaply made and fairly dangerous, and this is pretty well known... so I am tickled that they called it "SafeMore" to reassure you.
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• #7657
Totally Agree!
Last time I had to do some research. including things like surge protection, fused, and simply checking if im happy with the build construction.
GF is also in the habit of turning them off at the wall everynight on some of them.
I dont mind paying more for something like build quality and comfort of mind.
I think the last one was a Belkin...
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• #7658
I'd always do power and USB separate, especially when USB standards seem to change every few years, or you end up filling things with USB-A to USB-C adapters.
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• #7659
Topping and SMSL seem to be well regarded. For the price I’d give one these of a punt.
LEPY LP-2020A Amplifier https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00C2P61FO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_r0zHEbWE309P2
Probably only about 12w of clean power per channel though, depends on how sensitive your speakers are. I’ve been fine with a couple of different ~90dB/w/m boxes. Other Tripath chips are more powerful.
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• #7660
Except the standard takes many many years to develop and even more to institute as standard.
USB A was started in 1996... I still have USBa to mini floating around. USBa to USBC will be around for a long time.
I can live with that.
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• #7661
I was told by an electrician to try and minimise the usb banks, and never install the sockets with usbs in as there is no regs that cover them, so they can be knocked out to the cheapest possible standard.
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• #7662
That's why I try to get a well know and trusted brands like belkin or anker. I'm willing to take that risk. Esp if it has surge protection and fused and and and.
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• #7663
You have the 20quid one? It's ok?
They all seem to be coming from china so 1 months wait.
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• #7664
Mine is a Calv Acoustic Labs Charlize II, based around the Tripath TA2020 chip. It's got air core inductors, fancy caps etc.
That LEPY looks to have the same chip, but it's probably a knock-off, think Tripath went out of business a few years ago.
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• #7665
Get one of these and tell us what it's like!
edit: Actually found a review here - looks like a no brainer for £20
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• #7666
Ordered. But was 25 with power supply.
Will see! Cheers
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• #7667
Makes me want to build active speakers just looking at it.
What PSU did you get? Worth going pretty chunky - 24v 5A kinda thing.
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• #7668
Just the one that came with it.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/263703720883 -
• #7669
dearVRpro does this. Basically a reverb with azimuth / distance and elevation parameters along with room size / reflections etc
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• #7670
So the PSU might well cost more than the amp? 😂
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• #7671
The interconnects will cost more than the amp!
I'm a big fan of class D amps. So efficient, tiny & cheap.
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• #7672
the PSU might well cost more than the amp?
If you break down the cost of a conventional one box power amp, the power supply usually costs more than the audio amplifier parts.
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• #7673
If I'm looking at that price range I'm always drawn to an MC cart like the Dynavector that gets a lot of good reviews. If it's high enough output I might be able to make it work with my DIY phono amps.
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• #7674
The empty cases with massive heat sinks are pretty pricy.
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• #7675
Hana SL was good, but I spent about the same again on a phono stage because it needed 400r.
I done with mc.
I was sorely tempted by an inspire monarch that was for sale about a fortnight ago.
I managed to free up loads of sockets by powering the myriad of USB stuff in my system with one of these.
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