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cutter + vice with yellow plastic things (for holding hose) + small hammer (for barb) :
should be ok with dedicated effort:)
(put fitting + olive on hose before inserting the barb...)
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You can shorten Shimano hoses at either end. The system is the same at both ends - barb/olive/compression nut. The advantage to doing it at the caliper end is that if you're careful you might get away without having to bleed the system at all, and if you do have to bleed it then it should be fairly straightforward as the lever (the hardest part in the system to get rid of air) should remain full of fluid.
You don't need the TL-BH62. I've just used the little yellow blocks that come with the retail kits held together with a small G-clamp and a small soft-faced mallet to drive the barb home. The Lifeline tool looks good FRM though - I could be tempted that that. The Park combined cutter and barb-inserter tool looked very tempting, until I saw the price.
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The lifeline tool looks interesting, I use this http://www.tektro.com/mobile/products.php?p=104
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svenhöek
Brommers
coventry_eagle
@spinnnout
Caveat: have only worked with SRAM and have only done the following from the caliper end.
I need to internally route (through some new handlers) and shortern R7020 cables.
Can this be done easily at the lever end? It seems that Shimano uses an olive/barb at the lever end (different to SRAM) and caliper end.
The manual [https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/dm/DM-RADBR01-07-ENG.pdf] suggests you can shorten from the lever end (avoids having to deal with the internal routing on the frame) but they use a very elaborate and expensive tool, the TL-BH62.
Is the TL-BH62 necesary? It seems the same could be done with a dedicated cutter (already own) and a barb press, e.g. this for £16 https://www.wiggle.co.uk/lifeline-pro-hydraulic-hose-needle-driver/