Home DIY

I imagine that I need:
some vent pipe
flat roof ceiling cone
4" cowl

but then other accessories/finishing bits are a bit of a mystery...you were very helpful regarding a leak at the front of my house a while back. If you have any suggestions/guidance then I'm all ears!

Has anyone got a cheap compound mitre saw they would recommend?

B&Q have a Macallister model for £90, and Wickes an own-brand one for £95.

Any others I should consider in a similar price range? Or is there a second hand one I could get for a similar price that would be a better prospect?

I bought one on here that i have no plans for using in near future; its bosch something.. u want to borrow? I am in se6 tho

I was in Brockley today as well!

That's a great offer, thank you. I will get in touch later in the week depending on the baby situation.

Do you have a picture or link?

Sounds about right.

You need to make sure that there is at least one back draught shutter (non return valve) in the duct line.

I would also strongly recommend that the vent pipe does not not go vertically. The vent pipe will be venting warm, humid air to cold air so condensation is an issue. This is normally not a problem as the condensation will sit where it forms and eventually evaporate, if the duct is vertical gravity will pull it down into the extractor unit which can cause problems. Because of this you are much better off having a horizontal run of ducting in the line.

It is also critical to make sure that the flashing round the cowling that sits on top of your roof is installed properly.

Basically there is no reason why you should not be able to do this but if it's not done properly you could be causing problems for yourself further down the line. These potential pitfalls are the reason why most builders will advise you to have the vent going through a wall or pitched roof rather than a flat roof.

Excellent advice thank you! I think venting through the roof is the only option on this occasion as there's a rooflight in between the extractor and the external wall. I'll bear that all in mind and work out the best way forward. Thanks again

Excellent advice thank you! I think venting through the roof is the only option on this occasion as there's a rooflight in between the extractor and the external wall. I'll bear that all in mind and work out the best way forward. Thanks again

Couple of questions:

Would you expect the shower controls to have sealant round them? I assume they should:

How easy it is to fix UPVC windows like this:

When you close it there's a bit of a gap like this:

Cheers

Depends, if everything is sealed of nicely behind the controls it should be fine. Do you know the person that installed them? If not, it's a recipe for disaster.

Nope. New bathroom in a house we're looking to buy. I think I'll request that it's sealed.

If I end up doing it myself is it usual to seal it all the way round or do you leave the bottom clear for anything that may get in to drain out?

.

All around, close it up completely. Don't use the cheapest silicone. There might already be water damage if it's not closed up and they already used the shower.

Just replaced a double socket in the kitchen as swapping the kettle and microwave plug repeatedly cause the contacts to be a bit sizzly. Is there always bugger all room in the back box for the amount of wire required? I couldn't see how to possibly remove any but it was still a squeeze, to say the least. At least now the ground wire is actually secured to the back box.

Cheers. I'm pretty sure it's never been used. I'm just coming up with a kind snagging list to see what I can get the current owner to sort out.

Get it. I'd want to do it myself because current owner won't put as much detail into it and I hate badly done silicones (^^)

The shower valves shouldn't need silicone around the outside perimeter. There should be a gasket behind that face plate to seal it.

My siliconing is somewhat agricultural so I'd be fine with someone else doing it.

Looks like the hinge on the window is either badly installed hinge, or a failed hinge. Need to look at how the hinge is attached to the opener, as the plastic frame maybe damaged.

How easy it is to fix UPVC windows like this

https://www.lfgss.com/comments/14604189/

Cheers and @ElephantBreath a very comprehensive answer that makes it sound like it is possible if I can be bothered.

Until you can be bothered, clean and lubricate the hinge points with some 3in1 oil and a dab of grease on the point that locates into the top cap.

That would probably help it close easier and better (I'd recommend that as general maintenance before any fail)
If there's still a gap, pulling the top inwards with a suction cup whilst closing the window should work until the next time its opened.

I'm just about to head off to job which I expect to be replacing a pair of hinges.
Edit, it was replacing hinges because the slider had snapped in two, so closing the window wasn't happening.

spend my last 3 days free at home stripping the entire house of shit wallpaper.

fuck I hate stripping wallpaper

I'm doing paint. Also thankless

Probably not the best time to have started this job, but here we are. Old kitchen ripped out for new one to go in next week. So far have moved a socket along a bit, replaced sockets with USB ones like a baller, reboarded and replastered. Just painting to do this weekend and hopefully should be back up and running by Weds.

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Not sure about the cable run for the cooker (or is it washing machine) circuit... but perhaps you’ve made it safer 😉