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• #20827
I believe the 3d printed files are available to download and use freely. There is a group online where people are building their own. With access to a 3D printing machine might not be as high as $700, I think the price is for a completed camera already built. Lens might need to be provided by customer.
It seems good way into panoramic with quality glass.
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• #20828
Bit of a long shot but does anyone have a prism finder for an rb67 they’d be willing to part with?
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• #20829
.
5 Attachments
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• #20830
great stuff
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• #20831
#2 is great.
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• #20832
Having a clear out and found these. Anyone want them for the price of postage? I honestly have no idea how old they are but I'd guess at least 8 years....
1 Attachment
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• #20833
Pretty easy to test if they’re in ok nick. If they’re still sealed I reckon they might be ok.
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• #20834
They're still sealed. I know I'm not going to use them so don't want to unseal them!
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• #20835
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• #20836
Lovely. What film?
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• #20837
Have travelled through a lot of airports where they say its impossible to hand check film, kick up a fuss and all you get is it put in a plastic bag and repeatedly pushed back and forth in the machine. China/us/india being the worst ones, usually only shoot iso 100 to 400 so not much risk, but when you fly through up to a dozen airports on the same trip, thats a lot of scans!
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• #20838
repeatedly pushed back and forth in the machine
hehe
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• #20839
These are beautiful! What camera are they shot on if you don't mind me asking?
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• #20841
Couple more Nettar, HP5 @800
2 Attachments
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• #20842
Hi, iv recently been to Kiev and used a cheapo Kodak disposable camera..... Always loved how they pictures look and found it really fun to use. Unrelated. But took them to max speilman today to get them developed and on my return to collect them I saw the woman behind the counter looking nervous. Turned out the developer machine had broken and ruined all my film and the images of my trip to Kiev and Chernobyl weren't shaved. Anyway
I'm after a film camera to start shooting with and after a quick Google iv seen the Olympus 0m1 come up.... Worth getting as a beginner's film camera or? -
• #20843
Sorry to hear about your film. Horrible.
… the images of my trip to Kiev and Chernobyl weren't shaved.
Not a roadie then? :)
I wrote some blurb about the Olympus OM that might be useful, either to you or others online thinking about picking one up.
The OM1 is a nice camera. It’s the SLR I’ve settled on after trying loads. It’s fully manual, mechanical, cloth curtain with an unobtrusive needle meter (the camera will work fine without the meter switched on). It’s selling point when it was introduced was that it was small and had a great viewfinder. It’s about the same size and weight as an M rangefinder or the 80s Pentax SLRs. The lenses were very good for the time and good today. Loads sold, so there are lots out there and not expensive.
There are a few things to be aware of;
Thing 1. The light-seal foam surrounding the prism will have degraded by now. It doesn’t ever need replacing but it can creep into the viewfinder and cause darkening/staining. All the cameras I’ve owned had this. The fix is fairly simple and worth doing as soon as you get the camera body: take the top-plate off the camera and swab the prism foam away (with a cotton bud and white spirit).
Thing 2. The M1, OM1 and OM1n were all designed for the meter to be powered by a tiny 1.25v cell. These are hard to find and the ones that exist are kinda shit. Use a silver oxide 1.5v. You can either compensate your metering or have the meter recalibrated by a technician. Or you could buy an OM2, which take 1.5v ok, has aperture priority, but you lose the classy battery-free operation and (I think) the shutter and metering is different.
Thing 3. Some people find setting the shutter speed with the left hand a little weird because that’s different to lots of SLRs. It’s unlikely this would be an issue unless you’d used other manual SLR brands for years.
And one thing I guess worth mentioning that applies to a few SLRs but particularly the Olympus OM … this was a system camera, so the focus screens are changeable (with loads of versions for specialist uses). For normal use you want a normal screen (there were a bunch but just something with and a split and micro prism). These are by far the most common. If you buy blind (eBay) you can easily end up with a camera you can’t focus until you track down a ‘normal’ screen.
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• #20844
Hi guys, I was wondering which software do you use to scan your negatives? Vuelscan, Silverfast..?
I'm currently using the Canoscan 9000f mark II software but it doesn't always recognize the negatives (in particular when shot at night). Any recommendations ? Many thanks : )
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• #20845
Not a Roadie?
But thank you for the deep insight regarding both the om1/2 some food for thought as I go forward getting my first film camera. Is there a beginner's camera you would recommend though doesn't matter about age or brand but obviously the easier to use and the easier for me to get batteries and comman film sizes is best. I have a budget of around £150 so hopefully I could pick something up for that price. -
• #20846
Canon A1, Ae1 orrr Pentax mv, me, me super. I have an MV id sell, would be great as a starter 35mm slr. Can easily spend less than 100 to get something to practice with
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• #20847
Pm incoming.
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• #20848
Not a Roadie?
Unshaved film (your typo). Roadies shave. Yeah … I’ll get my coat.
Is there a beginner's camera you would recommend
The Pentax K1000 with a 50mm lens is ideal. Preferably from a decent shop such as LCE.
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• #20849
Hah! I see my typo, so a well made joke! Thanks for the advice
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• #20850
At risk of ending up in the golf club thread, what kind of camera is manageable for skiing? Would it be completely stupid to try and bring a GW690 out for a day? I'll def be bringing a mju either way
Sooooooo overrated