Home DIY

I’m also a bit worried about screws/etc coming through the back as it’s not very thick.

All the cool kids et cetera, @fizzy.bleach is your go-to on this one.

Lols

Not sure mirror glass will hold up in the same way as prefab pebbledash tbh

have it rest on a very solidly built shelf (that's the weight taken care of)

then to stop it tipping forwards, there are tonnes of options. how chunky is the frame (not talking about the board at the back? my best idea is to put hooks in the frame and use picture wire to take some of the weight. it's adjustable, so you should be kosher.

You could also hang it from the ceiling.

Current mini-project for me at the moment is (re-)doing the insulation in our loft conversion.

It turns out that the reason for the room being brass monkeys over the past few weeks is because 1) the existing insulation in the eaves has blown out of the studs, and 2) there's basically no insulation between the soffit and the inner storage wall.

Plan is to

1. tape up the PIR in the kneel wall, and skin with 9mm OSB3
   
2. add another layer of rock wool in the eaves behind the kneel wall
   
3. add baffles to make sure there is still ventilation above the rock wool
   
4. 50mm PIR between the rafters in the storage space (where there is currently nothing), leaving 50mm ventilation above
   
5. another 50mm PIR layer below that
   
6. skin ceiling with 9mm OSB3
   
   

(Picture doesn't show it, but there is a soffit)

2 Attachments

Take the screws out and replace them with bolts? You could just put a washer and nut on the outside (possibly with a rubber washer and/or a dab of sealant to keep the rain out). That would be stronger and neater.

ikr

Couple of pictures for context. The frame is quite thick but possibly made of (antique) cheese - the whole thing seems to flex when moved.

6 Attachments

Excellent diagram 👏🏻

Can I please crudely photoshop cannabis plants into the space between the chipboard and the OSB?

If you are VERY careful with their placement then french cleats would work well at supporting that with the added bonus (assuming you only want to have a shelf for support) that you could dispense with the supporting shelf. One fixed to the bottom rail of the frame to support the base and one fixed to each upright about 2/3 of the way up.

https://youtu.be/KXHNvNshlSE

Alternatively these floating shelf brackets are good. Easy to install and strong.

I think the shelf will complete the frame visually and I don’t trust the bottom rail, which I think is a later addition (presumably after it was torn off a fireplace)!
A French cleat seems to be the best way, it’s just lining them up that is tricky.

FRONT DOOR FRAMES (+SURROUNDS)

Are they liderally just screwed into the brickwork surrounds? I'll obviously get a pro to do it but I want to swap my PVC front door and surround with a wood one and like to know how things work

There is a bit more to it than that but that's the gist.

Ideally there is some form of draught proofing between the frame and brickwork. If the sill (if applicable) is level with the ground there is waterproofing to consider as well.

Cheers man, can't wait to get rid of this highly secure, well installed, draughtproof and heat and sound insulating set up for something wooden and rattly, I'll be in safe territory

I'm looking at multi-tools/cutters, but not sure what I want. Does anyone have some recommendations? If battery powered, Makita 18v would make sense as I have plenty of batteries, but maybe corded would be just fine? Is quick tool change worth getting over Allen key versions?

I have a Makita DTM50z, it’s decent but I would probably pay the extra for quick change next time as if you’re doing something that involves switching between blades, it gets old quickly.

Alright. One of the reviews on Amazon mention the cordless version lacking the power of the corded. What's your experience?

Ideally there is some form of draught proofing between the frame and brickwork.

Expanding foam is the usual trick. Not too much thought, when they say expanding they mean it.

And keep the frame steady until the foam cures completely. Then get a sharp blade to trim off the excess and some foam remover to clean the bits where all the foam has got on the frame/wall/you.

I bought a DTM50z a couple weeks ago. Not sure about power compared to corded as I've never used one but so far I've cut a square in the back of a cupboard, cut off some stainless bolts and cut some plastic. Not mega hardcore uses but it's had enough power.

I got the bare unit and set of 3 bosch blades. The quick tool change sounds good but you dont get the makita led.

Why not just use celotex instead of the OSB?

PVC secure and fire proof.

I think I'll go for the DTM50Z then. My BIL says he quite like the Allen key tool changes as it allows time for blood to flow back to his hands and fingers...

Seems to be enough power for my usage (chopping through floorboards and grinding out tiles) - if anything the vibration in your hand is the limiting factor.

I might wait a bit though

1 Attachment

Fein are the market leaders for a reason. More expensive but worth it and they have some kind of witch craft that minimises the vibrations.