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  • Large in general or in a specific area? I have the issue that I should be a 43.5, as size 9 in every boot is too small on the toes but size 10 can be too baggy or too tight. Generally it’s the toe box/width I need rather than any length.

    In other news, I jacked up the GN125 with a set of used Hagons in 350mm today (spec was 310-320mm) with quite stiff springs. Along with new forks and tyres that the mechanic fitted a week or so ago, riding is much nicer. Put over 100 careful/urban miles in the tyres before trying some real cornering in the dry today. New forks could do with more/harder oil for less sloppy response but generally improved.

    One intermittent issue I can’t get rid of is the bike stalling when I slow/stop fast. For example in traffic, or coming to park onto the driveway, usually when I pull the clutch and coast the last few feet.

    Revs drop fast below idle point and bike can die. Apart from longer stops in traffic, returning to constant throttle twitching to push revs up and avoid anything under 2k.

    Clutch cable is pretty tight, battery is new and after riding remains over 13V, spark plug is new as the battery (3 months) is dry and not sooty or anything, gasket between carb and engine is new, carb had been cleaned, and only V-Power (99 Octane) fuel and occasional Redex in the tank. Idle is set to about 1.5k - stock on timing screw and slightly more open on throttle stopper. Running out of ideas apart from rudeboy revving.

  • Check the mixture screw is set right.

    Any airleaks at the carb? Easiest way to check is as the bike is idling, spray brake cleaner around the area of the carb to head and see if the revs increase.

  • Shouldn’t be, but air leak was a suspicion. Just no idea where!

    I tightened down the new carb-engine gasket and it’s been running well compared to the leaky old one.

    This issue seems to only be when coming to a stop from over 30mph and letting revs drop fast, typically pulling in clutch and coasting the last bit to save the engine from braking horribly in first or second.

    When it does die, it needs the nudge with clutch and throttle, as button alone won’t do. Starting from warm with choke off (ie during journey after parking for a few minutes or more) it needs a flick of the throttle to get the revs to climb enough to start up.

    In general use no bogging, hunting, or lack of power more than would be expected with an old 125. When warming up it will rise to over 3k on choke and sit there a while, and when it wants to drop, I go half choke and it sits a while longer. Gently close choke to get it sitting idle, too fast shutting off choke and again it will cut out.

    Will give it a spray whilst idling warm tomorrow, last time I tried there were no boosts in revs.

    Considering the mechanics had freed and re-set the timing screw to spec, I’d expect that they did so on the mixture screw too. Hmmmm. Maybe it’s just the spark plug again?

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