-
• #14927
My vote is for sticky Cam Chain tensioner too....I've replaced them with manuals on just about every Suzuki I've had...and my mates DRZ. Easy fix hopefully!
-
• #14928
Want a hand/company?
-
• #14929
It was burwins?
-
• #14930
Some mechanics take a view of the bike as a whole and pitch you the worst case scenario, that way if you baulk you don't end up going down a rabbit hole on soemthing that actually needs other items done.
Other mechanics just like making work for themselves. We have a local saab garage that my mum has been using since i was born, the main guy and others really know their stuff, but they have taken her for a ride on a few jobs that I 100% know the issue/parts/labour was a fraction of what she was billed. Still go there but she runs the quotes past me each time now lol -
• #14931
In Malaysia at the moment, so many fun small capacity bikes about. 110/135/150 are the three main categories. Loads of honda cub type bikes with a 4 or 5s semi, copies of by other Japanese brands. Very very few Chinese origin bikes (a good thing). Ktm duke 200 seems to be about the most spicy thing that the average person rides (20 to 25hp), really quite light and flick through traffic at huge lean angles all day long.
Also just like honda civics from the 90s, there is hardly and standard bikes, everything is modified in some way. Big trend for the half scoot /half bike 2s with a bigger bore kit on it, skinny chrome spoked wheels and pretty much bike tyres (2" width) on them. Super loud, super annoying, but imagine could be fun for a bit. -
• #14932
I was recommended the mechanics round the corner from me. Way closer than the old school guys across town, and busy enough there’s a wait.
So far so good. Got them to fit the new tyres and forks. Work isn’t a bargain but they have itemised everything - they give it on a proper quote on paper and give invoices. Old school guys had paper notes and a little till receipt, so impossible to evidence what’s been done.
They warned about the rabbit hole on one or two things I asked about, and seemed concerned about me spending money wisely - happy to give advice and talk through options.
The old school guys are so busy and so old school you’re lucky to get a grunt between bare minimum communication. Still polite but not the same atmosphere for sure.
Local guys had a laugh about the little 125. They were amazed how light it was, since they’re used to big engines. They said the two of them lifted it by hand just because they could. Skinny tyres, light bike, they really are little flick machines.
-
• #14933
Going through this now. Front has come out and is looking quite clean and well oiled. The rear is a bastard to get to. Need a socket extender, so hopefully tomorrow. Had a proper listen and rattle seems to be coming from the rear cylinder.
@ElephantBreath Yep, Burwins lot. They too their time and came out in the pouring rain to have a listen. Didn't ask me for a single penny; just confirmed that it was cam chain noise.
I really appreciate the offer. If It ends up being more than the tensioners, I'll give you a should if that's ok?
@BrickMan The Brurwins lot have been nothing but great. I've yet to know a workshop that lent me an oil filter removal tool with nay a question asked on the promise that I'll return it.
I trust them well enough as people.
On the other hand, totally understand what you mean. First workshop I went to in Kilburn did fuck all and charged through the teeth. bike didn't even start on multiple cranks; their advise was 'just roll more throttle' and went back inside. -
• #14934
So, a new bikes dealer has been super friendly and helpful, happy to chat on occasion on multiple visits. One used dealer is useless, and the other is a bit lacklustre. I’ve been popping in a few places to get a feel for things - both staff and bike options.
The new bikes dealer has been great since day one (even before my CBT) really soft-sell and very clear that so long as the system confirms I have my full license I can go out all day on a test ride.
The dodgy place, good luck getting any straight answer.
Just seen these remarks about the lacklustre place. I guess I won’t be buying from there (not least cos I’ll be newly qualified).
Is that common for anywhere else? No test rides pre-purchase/new-riders.
1 Attachment
-
• #14935
They don't allow test rides until you buy it? The fuck does that even mean? If I'd just bought it I can set it on bloody fire if I want to let alone test ride it!
-
• #14936
Lots of dealers won't let you test ride without a full year under your belt.
Insurance thing I think. -
• #14937
Quite a few have a massive excess if you fuck it up.
-
• #14938
please can I ask for some touring advice on behalf of my dad who's heading to Spain in the summer?
1) He has motorcycle insurance, which covers 90 days in Europe. Having a look at the policy, we don't think this covers medical bills if anything happened but it would cover bike damage/theft etc. Can anyone recommend an insurer for this please? He pays for Staysure worldwide travel insurance each year, but this doesn't cover bike touring. Edit - think it is just a money supermarket 'motorcycle travel insurance' job £20ish
He also rang his insurance company about whether he needs to take his chain as well as disc lock (the bike also has data tag and BMW's immobiliser); they couldn't give a definitive answer (lol). Will he need to lug that around? Guessing most of you don't take a chain to tour.
Thanks!
-
• #14939
No medical bills cover, EHIC card may help, but you won't be repatriated. Get yearly insurance that covers motorcycle riding as many list motorcycling as an extreme sport and don't cover it. Any pre existing medical conditions?
I rarely carry any bike security, just try and choose hotels or camp sites that allow me to park the bike near the room or secure parking.
-
• #14940
@ElephantBreath forgot to mention he has an EHIC card. No medical conditions and he will go to a travel insurer for next year who don't exclude motorcycling.
Cheers
-
• #14941
Try and get kit cover. Seen the cost of decent luggage as well as electrical goodies, make sure they are covered just in case.
-
• #14942
With touring I've done on hire bikes they've had fairly heavy chains supplied and we were expected to use them. It's always nerve racking planning a tour, it's an adventure and obstacles will have to be overcome. :)
-
• #14943
Looking for an extra set of boots/shoes as my main ‘waterproof’ pair were saturated after 4 hours of training in the rain yesterday.
Came across these. New with defects? Bargain.
1 Attachment
-
• #14944
My brother and late father had a Honda Camino each. my dad's one was better.
Anyway, he is looking to sell them both - one as a good one and the other for spares.
Any interest here? Not really motorbikes, more mopeds I suppose, but I don't know, someone might be interested. They're both in Suffolk, I can get some photos if anyone wants any.
ta
-
• #14945
I really like my Stylemartin Indian boots. Once I got a proper pair of boots (TCX S-Speed) they mainly got resigned to casual wear. However, relative to non-technical boots they still have good protection.
They wear on the large size.
-
• #14946
Large in general or in a specific area? I have the issue that I should be a 43.5, as size 9 in every boot is too small on the toes but size 10 can be too baggy or too tight. Generally it’s the toe box/width I need rather than any length.
In other news, I jacked up the GN125 with a set of used Hagons in 350mm today (spec was 310-320mm) with quite stiff springs. Along with new forks and tyres that the mechanic fitted a week or so ago, riding is much nicer. Put over 100 careful/urban miles in the tyres before trying some real cornering in the dry today. New forks could do with more/harder oil for less sloppy response but generally improved.
One intermittent issue I can’t get rid of is the bike stalling when I slow/stop fast. For example in traffic, or coming to park onto the driveway, usually when I pull the clutch and coast the last few feet.
Revs drop fast below idle point and bike can die. Apart from longer stops in traffic, returning to constant throttle twitching to push revs up and avoid anything under 2k.
Clutch cable is pretty tight, battery is new and after riding remains over 13V, spark plug is new as the battery (3 months) is dry and not sooty or anything, gasket between carb and engine is new, carb had been cleaned, and only V-Power (99 Octane) fuel and occasional Redex in the tank. Idle is set to about 1.5k - stock on timing screw and slightly more open on throttle stopper. Running out of ideas apart from rudeboy revving.
-
• #14947
In relation to suspension: WTF do "hard damping" mean?
-
• #14948
Check the mixture screw is set right.
Any airleaks at the carb? Easiest way to check is as the bike is idling, spray brake cleaner around the area of the carb to head and see if the revs increase.
-
• #14949
Shouldn’t be, but air leak was a suspicion. Just no idea where!
I tightened down the new carb-engine gasket and it’s been running well compared to the leaky old one.
This issue seems to only be when coming to a stop from over 30mph and letting revs drop fast, typically pulling in clutch and coasting the last bit to save the engine from braking horribly in first or second.
When it does die, it needs the nudge with clutch and throttle, as button alone won’t do. Starting from warm with choke off (ie during journey after parking for a few minutes or more) it needs a flick of the throttle to get the revs to climb enough to start up.
In general use no bogging, hunting, or lack of power more than would be expected with an old 125. When warming up it will rise to over 3k on choke and sit there a while, and when it wants to drop, I go half choke and it sits a while longer. Gently close choke to get it sitting idle, too fast shutting off choke and again it will cut out.
Will give it a spray whilst idling warm tomorrow, last time I tried there were no boosts in revs.
Considering the mechanics had freed and re-set the timing screw to spec, I’d expect that they did so on the mixture screw too. Hmmmm. Maybe it’s just the spark plug again?
-
• #14950
Maybe try a different brand of plug? My Bown (Sachs engine) stalls easily and won't tick over evenly with an NGK plug but seems fine with a Bosch.
Didn't pay anything. Just stopped by for a couple of words. I've used the Burwins lot before and they've been excellent.
To be honest, I take everything with a pinch of salt, and I had in mind the stuck tensioner as well, so will be checking that before anything.
They're dirt cheap, and bang on like you said, it's coming from the front cylinder.