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• #20102
What look like mice droppings in the shed about 8m from the house.
Should I do anything? Or live and let live?
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• #20103
Are you sure they're mice droppings?
It's hard to get a sense of scale from the pic.
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• #20104
What animal poos uncooked rice?
Unless the shed is in your kitchen, there's no point trying to get rid of them. There will always be mice.
inb4 nuke from orbit
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• #20105
Burn it down.
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• #20106
Get a cat
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• #20107
Mine does fuck all.
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• #20108
Take one of my cats, they kill everything. Night before last the fuckers left one at the bottom of the stairs. Obviously I stepped on it as I came down for breakfast.
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• #20109
How long before your furry friend realizes your house is warmer and contains more food than your shed?
https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/280521/ etc. -
• #20110
Flooring/floor sanding questions:
I have some brand new floorboards alongside some Victorian pine ones. (I know it's not going to look great, but the builder put them in and I'm not going to rip them out again so I'm just going to apply the same stain and hope they'll be reasonable.) The question is - at what stage of the sanding process should I start on those? Should I go through all the grits with them as well?
There's a room upstairs which we've also stripped back to boards. I'm pretty sure that it slopes along the joists - the ceiling in the room below is also far from horizontal so it makes sense. If I were to lay flooring on top of the floorboards, what would/could I use underneath to level the floor out?
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• #20111
Mine does fuck all.
Get more mice.
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• #20112
We were thinking of getting a log burner but would mean getting rid of the tiles and maybe the surround. Now thinking we might just sweep the chimney and occasionally have a fire in the winter. There are some cracks in the fire place though. Is this safe or need addressing/filling?
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• #20113
Thanks all.
I'm sure it's been made worse by the random floor underlay I've kept in there.
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• #20114
Not a fire expert, but there were cracks in the back of all the fireplaces in my folks old house which had no central heating - ie lots of fires. Pretty sure it's a product of heat + stone.
Never any issues, although they did get them patched eventually when there was work to the rest of it. But these were solid chalk(?) stone things, so could well be softer.
They always had a caste iron fire plate at the back. Protects the stone and helps with heat.
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• #20115
Word, my new hallway has got thin laminate flooring stuck down on top of wooden floorboards. The laminate peels back easily enough but underneath there's a layer of gritty, grey cement-like stuff. What could it be? Screed? I need to know so I can choose the right method of removal.
Was hoping to be able to heat or chemically strip the boards but it looks like grinding/sanding might be in order.
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• #20117
Thought as much. Reckon mechanical removal is a messy but possible solution. The boards don't need to be perfect as we're just going to paint them black.
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• #20118
Alright Keef.
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• #20119
Anyway.
If the vertical struts of your shed aren't wide enough to accommodate screws / fixings to allow multiple hanging points, does it make sense to screw osb sheet to the struts and then fixings to the sheet?
IS THAT SENSIBLE? -
• #20120
I need a new shed. I'd like to build one myself but time is of the essence here so I think prefab will be best and I can build shelves and a bench inside in due course.
Where's good to buy from? I'd like wood instead of metal, and we have an existing concrete slab to set it on.
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• #20121
I like my shed from Tiger Sheds.
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• #20122
Batons across at the levels you want the fixings rather than sheet? That way you don't lose as much space as boarding out.
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• #20123
Much better idea.
3-5 cm thick (deep) should work right? -
• #20124
plenty - depending on what you're hanging - I have bikes hung on 2x3 which is 38mm nominal
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• #20125
I looked for a long time and decided a dual skin plastic shed was he best long term bet!
Went with one from Lifetime sheds and it's been great. If you are storing a lot of metal tools it's very good at resisting condensation. The guy who delivered it told me he has one for his scooter collection for that reason.
Of course I get why you would be thinking wooden, I was pretty sure I would build one from scratch but this one outperformed anything easily affordable.
Good question.
Previous owners/decorators could think of a way to make the coving follow the curve so they just buried it behind some plaster. The plaster doesn't follow the curve very well so it looks like it's just swallowed up the coving.