Motorcycle and Scooter appreciation

As long as the corrosion doesn't affect the caliper rubbers don't worry.

Pics of my caliper.

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Also I assume this is an ABS calliper, right?

And the two bolts highlighted are for ABS banjos(?) ?

So does that mean you can blank them off with regular solid bolts and use them as non-ABS single line calipers with a normal banjo going to the attachment at 9 o'clock?

Cheers.

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Also if anyone has a left 3 pot nissin from a early 00's CBR600 /similar let me know. It looks like they may fit and I'd sooner referb a better caliper.

Don't bother unless you want to upgrade the MC as well. You just won't get the power and feel without going radial
If you want to do that, Radial MC from an '06 R6 works really well with those calipers. CBR600/954/929.

You'll be fine with those pistons. Seems like a can of worms but when you discover a new process there's a great sense of achievement and it bears no horrors for future attempts. Have been through this many times with an old Z I'm restoring.
Plus the cost saving - theres lots of helpful youtube stuff for this sort of process plus lot's of guys here who'll help. Hope it all goes well.

Not 100% sure what you mean as I'm not up on radial brakes. But from what I can gather I'm not sure how they would fit to the Triumph fork legs.

Surely though 3 pots are better than 2. Just like 4 is better than 3?

@hanford - cheers. Just going to go for seals for now.

It is not an ABS caliper, it is a linked brake caliper, So using the rear brake operates the one piston on the front caliper. ABS is not in the caliper.

@Chak is talking about the master cylinder not the caliper. There are two types of master cylinder,

Pistons, polish them with scotchbrite pads. When rebuilding make sure the groves the rubbers sit in are free from corrosion and the rubber sits in them correctly. Check that you need the seal as long as the seals are not damaged they can be reused.

EDIT - More pistons doesn't mean better, but that is more about the engineering of how brakes work. In this case sliding pin calipers to calipers with pistons on both sides in an upgrade. But that is a very long conversation.

Thanks. That's really helpful.

Basically this is what I was looking into previously - and has prompted another investigation:

https://youtu.be/z14QeH7CMFk

A few people have done it on Triumphrat. The guy in the YT video is English though, which is good as there are things like the fork cartridge mod using one of the old yamaha(?) models that seems easier and cheaper to do State-side.

The caliper I posted looked the same as the YT, bar the extra nuts.

Also worth pointing out that I think the reason people like that caliper swap, is that it's better, without being so much better that you then have to think about extra bracing, etc. and keeps it proportional to the bike.

Do you change the master cylinder as well as the caliper?

No I think it's just the caliper.

The spenny aftermarket ones usually have their own levers and master cylinders. But then they are usually 4 pots and not Nissin ones with the same design.

Do you change the master cylinder as well as the caliper?

From a bit more reading... it depends. This is a good thread from someone doing it on a Thunderbird.
https://www.triumphrat.net/threads/nissin-3-pot-calipers-on-a-tbs.237187/

The caliper pistons for the VFR800 were substantially larger than on the CBF1000. The CBF1000 has three 23mm pistons on each side for a total piston area of 2493 sq mm. This compares to two 27mm pistons each side on the stock TBS calipers, for a total piston area of 2290 sq mm. This is about a 9% increase in piston area, not substantial as far as the master cylinder is concerned. The VFR800, however, has three 25mm pistons on the left side, and on the right side it has two 25mm pistons and one 23mm piston. This gives a total piston area of 2870 sq mm, a full 25% more than the stock TBS calipers.

The upshot of all of this is that the stock TBS master cylinder, with it's 1/2" bore, would be completely inadequate to drive the VFR calipers. Generally they say for bikes with dual front brakes, a "piston area/master cylinder area" ratio of 15:1 to 19:1 is ideal, with 15:1 being on the firm side with less lever travel, and 19:1 being on the soft side with more lever travel. For bikes with single front brakes it's a little different, but I can't remember what a good ratio is. The stock TBS has a piston/master ratio of 18:1. With CBF1000 calipers the ratio would be 19.6:1, a little on the soft side, but not too bad. If you could get your hands on some CBF1000 calipers you could probably keep your stock master cylinder. However, with the VFR calipers and a stock master cylinder you'd have a ratio of 22.7:1. I never even tried running the stock master cylinder with the 3 pot calipers, but I would imagine if I had I would just about bottom the brake lever out before I could get maximum braking.

Also interesting as it looks like you can mod the 3 pot linked callipers to be single sided.

(pic from a different thread)

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Well. That was a noisy journey home!

Half my exhaust flew off somewhere on the road between Avebury and Swindon. Sounded amazing riding back though. Laughed my head off the whole way.

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Doesn't look healthy!

I wonder if you could get a small baffle in there?

Not sure. Wondering what my options are.

Was hoping to find a breakers and grab any old end can to rig over what’s left, maybe cut back at the actual pipe and slip/clamp over to replace what’s left of the end.

Halp

Megaphonic....

Generic end can off ebay, dirt cheap. I'd probably just take it to a car exhaust shop and have them weld it on. Shouldn't cost anything.

Cheap rear exhaust one fits all, cut off and then clamp on a silencer.

https://www.classicbikeshop.co.uk/silencers/universal-custom.html

Those do benefit from loads of extra baffling, and when I put two of the 'universal' megaphones on my bike it ran like absolute shit, even when I made some baffles to up the back pressure. My bike has a stupid engine though.

So... grab any old end can/silencer I like the look of (depending on pipe diameter), angle grind off the remainder of the old one/cut the pipe, and either weld on the new one or clamp it on?

What could possibly go wrong...

Maybe I should try find some huge performance can.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Exhaust-Complete-Suzuki-GN-125-E-GN125-GN125-R-1994-2001/122627040188?hash=item1c8d2423bc:g:Dz8AAOSwqfNXpYoe

Kinda fancy putting something different on it now that the original is blown out.

I do like this photo though, measures exactly how much I lost today!

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I misplaced my favourite gloves. :(
Can somebody recommend me something new? I've been riding with carhartt unlined driver gloves so thought I might get something with a bit more protection.
I still want cheap, but good leather and not sewn up from a million small bits. I like the yellow work glove aesthetic.
Cheers

I'd seriously advise against using anything other than proper bike gloves. Even my bike gloves had a small tear in the stitching from a low speed off.

My RACER gloves were always my favourite.

Yes, that's why I ask for recommendation for something proper now. I guess that wasn't clear at all.

Sorry didn't mean to get too preachy.

I'd start with:
https://www.urbanrider.co.uk/gloves.html
filter by "tan".

I rate my Weise gloves for the price, so I guess these should be decent quality:
https://www.urbanrider.co.uk/weise-victory-gloves-tan.html

(summer obvs)

I was going to suggest rev'it as when I got my gloves and my OH's gloves they had loads of cool non-power ranger ones. But now they don't seem to have as many suitable options. Still would recommend as my OH's are lovely things and not super expensive at RRP. Things like these. Merlin's boots and jackets are well priced and the ones I saw were decent, so I think their gloves should be ok too.

One thing worth noting is that although there is no doubt a price dimension to multiple pieces of leather, on bike gloves many have slightly different materials for different parts of the hand and it allows for good articulation.