Tubeless Tyres -"saying the same things about tubeless tyres over and over again" Hippy read the first f**king post

I've been using the milkit system on my one and only tubeless setup, it's been a breeze so far. https://milkit.bike/en/product/milkit-valve-system/

Other than the valve does it need any proprietary stuff?

I've tried using Milkit valves a number of times. I could never get them to seal, and replaced them all with Stans valves.

Stan stuff is very basic but work, especially as it’s steel.

To use the Milkit system to it's full potential you also need the injector/syringe. The injector's good anyway with other valves. I could just never get the valves to seal properly at road tyre pressures.

It looks like the milkit valves are skinnier than normal - is that the case or is that just my failing eyesight?

Nah, normal width. But the tapered rubber bit inside the wheel isn't as tapered as on other tubeless valves and I just can't get the fuckers to seal.

Yeah I have the syringe etc as well. I've pumped them up to 100psi without issue (I use 80-85 with 25mm tires tho)

For the sealant I switched to Stan's Race, much better than that Doc Blue which never sealed punctures properly.

Yeah I have the syringe etc as well. I've pumped them up to 100psi without issue (I use 80-85 with 25mm tires tho)

It might just be that I've only tried using them on rims with a very curved cross-section at the spoke holes. I get the impression Milkit valves would work better if the mounting surface is flat.

Does it come with more than one rubber mount? The Muc-off one come with different shape to fit different rims.

Maybe I can try the muc-off and see which suits these i23 rims the best.

Actually the WTB valves look quite like the Stans ones:
https://www.wtb.com/products/tcs-tubeless-valve-stems

I'll see what I can find in the Evans near work.

Just one. The rubber seal is part of the one-way valve system so it isn't replaceable.

Maybe I can try the muc-off

I've got them on the Fast Tourer. No problems yet.

They come with 3 different rubber grommet, which I really like.

Slight disadvantage is that it’s made from alu rather than steel (I had one that got bent and leak).

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I've ordered a Muc-off set and I'll probably go into Evans today to have a look. Although after the wiggling yesterday it seemed to hold air better today.

The advantage of alu is I can throw another colour anodising at the bike :)

To distract the fact your bicycle is in a perpetual state of needing a service?

I was thinking more that it would be easier for me to find the valve, along with the fact that having removed the COBL GOBLR seatpost and green saddle, the bike is looking slightly less ugly, which needs to be fixed.

it would be easier for me to find the valve

Just get some of these warning signs

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I already do that on my 700C wheels...

Dredge but I've tried this and it's failed miserably on two different wheels :( too thin to get a tight seal at the bead unless you want 50 layers. Oh well, I can use it for normal rims I guess

Edit: I also hated Gorilla tape though so maybe it's me and my many different wheels that are the problem

Bonty flash charger new for sale, not mine

https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/343020/#comment15094954

Has anyone noticed that Schwalbe Pro-Ones have poor traction on steep gradients, or am I just imagining it? Often, when I get out of the saddle I find the back wheel is skipping out. This might just be the road conditions at the moment, but for comparison, this current set-up (28mm, tubeless, 70psi), although it feels good in general, seems to be worse in this respect than how I remember my old set-up being in winter (GP4000 25mm tubed, 95psi).

I found that when I first got them, particularly if it was a bit damp.

I think I said that in a thread on here and got shot down though, not everyone seems to agree!