Tubeless Tyres -"saying the same things about tubeless tyres over and over again" Hippy read the first f**king post

Anyone had a similar issue with wtb nanos (or any tyre really). Been sat in the shed for a while, hasn't been ridden for a few months. Tyre had lost a bit of air so I pumped it up and now the sidewalls look like this!
Has the cold got to the sealant maybe? I've had tiny leaks in the past that have sealed themselves but this seems excessive.

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Is that stuff oily? I find with some tyres if they sit around for a but the sealant reacts with the tyre causing the tyre to release some of its oil content inside and outside the tyre.

It's kinda gross.

Not sure about oily (will check in the morning) but it has tiny air bubbles in it so I assumed it was air leaks and sealant?

I think it’s little bubbles of air and sealant escaping through the (porous) carcass. It happens on mine sometimes.

Did you use soapy water when mounting the tyre?

Like TM says, I would say it's just stuff leaking through the side wall. It happened on some Bontrager tyres I had, but they still held. If it's still got some air after "a few months " I'd say that's pretty good really...

It’s not uncommon with WTB stuff for some reason.

Shake and spin the tyre. All of the little particles the sealant has to plug the holes are probably at the bottom of the tyre, and if they've been there for a while, they might not want to move at first. If that doesn't help, put more sealant in it, and shake the bottle too.
Those sidewalls do look more porous than some others though.

As a complete neophyte I have a question about this point in the first post:

If when you install the tyres they don't pop into place with a track pump often the best thing to do is put an extra layer of rim tape on

I assumed this is because it increases the effective diameter of the rim bed, therefore closing the gap for air to escape. Now I have a roll of tape to potentially beef up my pre-taped rims, I realise 1 layer is only going to increase the diameter by under 0.3 mm. Which doesn't seem significant.

Or does 'put an extra layer of tape on' mean 5 layers?

(I'm at the point where I've successfully mounted one tyre fine with a CO2 inflator, track pump having failed, but the other - same tyre and same rim - seems nowhere near mounting)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tE3h4nmDdOo
Have you tried this? Did the trick for me, no faffing with tape.

Which doesn't seem significant

It might not seem significant, but it is. The Mavic UST spec calls for a bead seat diameter tolerance of ±0.35mm

Thanks! I think that trick to pre-seat the tyre might be it.

@mdcc_tester I think at least part of the problem is the tyre bead just floating around above the central rim well to start with, nowhere near the bead seat, so there is more like a 5mm gap.

If it is genuinely a 5mm gap then it's never going to stay on the rim, let alone inflate. Unless you have some deeply weird rims with some obscurely cavernous central rim well.

^ this

Well the rim is something like this, which is also Hunt, although mine are hooked and a bit wider. So the well is maybe 4 mm deeper than the tyre bead seat. And if a loose tyre bead sits in that well, there will be a lot of slack: 8 mm on one side if the tyre bead was a circle.

I don't think that should affect its ability to stay on the rim once it is seated.

Tyre is a used GravelKing 38mm which seems pretty floppy as far as tyres go. Maybe that's a factor?

Just to clarify, this with one layer of tubeless tapes, and the tyres is 100% tubeless ready?

Tyre is a used GravelKing 38mm which seems pretty floppy as far as tyres go. Maybe that's a factor?

Could be, not all GravelKing are actually tubeless compatible.

Like this isn't;

And this is (TLR on the right side)

The tyre is definitely tubeless ready; it's a GravelKing (non SK) TLC 650b.
I don't know how many layers of tape the wheel has, as it came taped.

I've already converted the rear one, and ridden it another 50 miles. That did seem pretty baggy initially, but blew on to the rim OK with a CO2 inflator. Maybe I was lucky with that one and the tyre bead just happened to fall into the rim hooks...

I've the gravelkings. They're "baggy" out of the box. You may try to give two laps of tape, very tight. @Tijmen video, or just sit one bead with a tube, works wonders too.

This was the valve that was leaking 3 months ago. Retaped the rim and added sealant and it seemed ok. Then added 10psi just now (taking it to 50psi) and it's leaking air under the valve again. The valve is shut off but could its base/rubber stopper be fucked? Do they go out of shape or anything? Should I try another valve in it? If so which brand actually works? #fuckingtubeless

Dude how tight did you wound the valve??

Cause it look like the rubber is really pressing against the rims.

It was hand tight. It's now slightly more than hand tight without the little curved rim spacer thing. #fuckingtubeless

That's how I got it when I bought it. It wasn't holding air so I retaped it and it was holding air. Maybe it was overtightened and it's now fuxxored? #fuckingtubeless

The number one issues I have found with customer tubeless set up is that when it's too tight, it distorted the rubber allowing the air to leak.

I've wiggled it to get sealant out around the valve and I'll wait to see if it holds the 50psi now.

What are the best valves to use? #fuckingtubeless