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Don't do it on a disc brake MTB wheel, stick to a proper enclosed cam QR at the very least.
Is this true with all hubs using these kind of fittings or just the home converted ones?
MCamb-
Is this true with all hubs using these kind of fittings or just the home converted ones?
I reread that when checking that I was linking the right thread, and now I'm in two minds about it. I've had no issues in terms of thread reliability with 6Nm on M6 screws in Shimano hollow axles, which puts the clamping force in much the same region as a good closed cam QR. While neither can be considered properly safe with disc brakes (only a through axle is), there's not a big enough difference to conclusively commend one over the other as a stop gap while you save up for a safe fork.
gbj_tester
I've tapped normal steel QR axles for M6 screws on a couple of front wheels; although the bore is slightly over the correct pilot size for M6 they work fine. Just don't go mad tightening the screws to avoid stripping the thread - about 4Nm is plenty to hold a road front wheel. Don't do it on a disc brake MTB wheel, stick to a proper enclosed cam QR at the very least.
I've even done an aluminium one on my roller bike, although I might baulk at that for road use.