Tubeless Tyres -"saying the same things about tubeless tyres over and over again" Hippy read the first f**king post

My friends all swear by Orange Seal which tbh is the only reason I chose it but it's worked well for me so far. Had 2 small punctures in about 5000km from small glass splinters which have both sealed before I lost much air. I don't really think there's much between the big names, they're all going to work about the same.

Stans supply schwalbe and IRC and may be so.e other with there sealant. I just remember it failing to seal often but topping up often cured that. It main issue is dropping latex so the fluid is latex poor and that why it had issues. At the time I was using a rim that required compressed air to get the tyre to inflate. That was the issue. Co2 was deadly. I sometimes helped seal the tyre but also meant I had to top up again at home
That what led me to think stop relying on sealant.

I used several, so far same experience than @cycleclinic. Had to say, all this is with high pressure road tires, big volume gravel tires at about 30-40 psi seal a lot better. Only one I find reliable for road duties is Stan's Race, but it's expensive, dries quicker and leaves a lot of gunk inside the tire.
My advice is for something road that gets ridden a lot in any weather use race, for a gravel bike use whatever and for summer bike don't bother and get latex tubes.

The bold claims of sealing are really based on mtb pressures. They dont apply at 80 psi

Two days I said I hope the p fairy stays over some of you well I jinxed it.

Three months ago I replaced the freehub bearings in my Royce hub which is used in the traitors all I had was a low end bearing. Over the last few rides I have had issues with yhd freehub. One bearing had disintegrated. So in a spare wheel goes with a unworn schwalbe pro one 28mm to get me home and to the shop again while I wait for some decent bearings to arrive e tomorrow.

The ride home tonight is 15 miles. The roads are damp in place dry in others. It's dark. 6 punctures. I plugged 3 nut had difficulty finding the other. 4 pumps. I was running out of plugs.

Either I have been spectacularly unlucky or this tyre is even shitter than I thought.

I stil have to get to work tomorrow.

I used to use latex tubed but kept on getting unexplained punctures. The best one was in a race which I was doing well in until a rider ag the efding front crashes and i yank the brakes to avoid crashing into the man who took a lie down. The braking was so severe the rather on my show fell apart and the latex tube in the front wheel must have got pulled round and ruptured. Gave up on latex tubes after that in clinchers. They are fine in tubs.

Happy to report that I got it right the first time using:

• AForce AL33 rims
  
• Hutchinson Fusion5 11Storm tires
  
• Milkit valves + syringe system (very nice)
  
• A bit of washing up liquid + water to wet the bead
  
• Doc Blue sealant (sealed half a litre bottle, almost 2 years old)
  
  

Process:

• I was able to put on the tires on the wheels just by using my hands (no Tyrekey, levers, etc) I think the wide rim bed helped.
  
• Use very little amount of soapy water alongside the beads (push the bead in, apply small amount with fingers, let go, move on alongside the tire)
  
• The beads seated not long after I frantically pumped it up with my regular Lifeline track pump, valve cores on. (Milkit lets you pump it without the valve cores too, innovative)
  
• I let the air out, unscrewed the valve cores and managed to put in 30ml of Doc Blue using Milkit's syringe/valve/hose system, without getting it anywhere else.
  
• After sloshing it around, pumped up to 90psi (the box said 80-120...) and let it sit for 36 hours.
  
• Commuted 2x14km today, nice ride quality
  
  

Came back home, writing this message. I decide to check the final pressures. I connect the pump to the rear tire. To my surprise, the pressure is low, maybe 35 psi. I pump it to 60psi and as the pressure rises I start hearing a hissing sound. Investigate and find a piece of glass stuck to the brand new, 28km-mileage tire. I pick it off (it's exactly at the opposite side of the valve) and the pressure starts escaping. I rotate it to get the cut part downwards (the bike is on a stand btw) and after a few seconds it's sealed. Doc Blue jizz under the stand. Pump it to 75psi few minutes later. For now, pumping more will aggravate the sealant and more will squirt out. (1 hour later I successfully pump it to 80psi. Just some bubbles on the hole, nothing big)

I check the front tire and it's happily sitting at 70psi. I pump in 10psi more for good measure.

Later I'll let the air out and check the sealant level using the Milkit syringe thing.

Would anyone strongly advise against me trying to run some rigid smart sam performance (the cheapest ones) tubeless. Is it a total waste of time or just a medium to large faff that may yield results.

(I was going to retape the rims anyway and thought I may as well give it a shot)

As long as you don't risk high pressures go for it, I had wired nanos tubeless and was fine.

There was basically no seal betwixt rim and tyre and I don't have an air shot to I just tubed them.

Must get an air thingie

Any tips on repairing a small sidewall tear in a set of tube less gravel tyres. Around 3mm long.

patch on the inside should do it. could also put some flexi super glue into the tear from the outside.

Needle and thread

Can anyone recommend the most hard-wearing tubeless tyre option for a delivery bike? Am using IRC at the mo, but wonder if there's a newer tyre that might last longer. Obvs Schwalbe's offerings are out of the question.

Why tubeless on a bike like that? Marathon, fit and forget

Maybe, but just want to reduce the likelihood of p* fairy visits as much as possible. Time is money, right?
These get rated though…

Took some photos to add to the first post.

Could also potentially be used for a tutorial?

(Sealant to be added through the valve core at a later stage)

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and then cry when the sealent goes everywhere.

the valve core

Stem. Stem!

Good photos to help the uninitiated.

Make sure to really emphaised that it should not be overtighten (valve).

Here is the last photo.

Sealant added

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always remove core to add, sealant clogs up the presta mechanism otherwise and always at 7 o clock position

Personally I'm an 8 o'clock man.

Would 5 o clock position be acceptable for people who are left handed?

Will modify the post!

What about the valve grommet ? Where does that go ?