Motorcycle and Scooter appreciation

If it’s a low cost / used bike, you’d be better off with a personal loan. First direct are still doing 3.3%.

If you’re leasing a new bike on PCP you will find most have rates around 5%-10% but obviously that will only be on the term amount so will be relatively low.

Whilst I like the sound of PCP, I'm not sure I'll be around the country long enough to sustain it without faff.
It'll be a relatively low cost bike, so checking First Direct, seems like below £7k, it runs into the 16.9% APR.

So it's better I get the loan independently rather than through a dealer?

Fair enough.

Check here for the best rates on loans: https://www.moneysavingexpert.com/loans/cheap-personal-loans/#cheapestunder5000

Likely to get better rates from a bank than the dealer...

AA loans are pretty cheap (especially if you have AA rescue cover).

Edit: or do what Jambon did and get a 0% credit card..

Good shout. Will do a little more digging

@Dramatic_Hammer Yeah this stuff seems to be a bit of a minefield really. Lower rates for pricier loans. Guess they have to make money somehow.

Got my eye on a Tiger as they seem to have dropped in price with release of new one, so credit card might be a good option.

GN125’s not playing ball. Did a couple proper 50-60 mile trips last week, forcing it to max out at 60-odd mph (or faster, downhill) but began to sound less and less happy after spending time in the red. Bike started to sound more scratchy and rattly when running since the Italian tune-up. Then the idle revs when warm have gone from 1.5 to 2k. Then the bike will do like before the carb clean and fall to zero and cut out. It happened when I had to stop a little fast and braked, pulled in the clutch, shifted down multiple gears as I stopped. But then it happened stopping in first regardless.

Got a leaky seal around the rev cable or another point, oil is seeping out on top. And looks like an air leak either side of the carb probably, from dead old rubbers and jubilee clips. Running lean with the air leak makes sense for the stalling, but the 2k idle? Bad noise who knows... needs a real strip down and work with the help of an experienced mechanic. Instructor pointed me in the right direction where to sort the seals out, where to clean.

Met with the instructor today and had two hours in the carpark on a 600 Bandit. What a world away from 125’s. Everything is bigger, more sensitive and heavier. And hotter! Worked up such a sweat just practicing slalom, U-turn and figure of 8.

Got a quote for full DAS training, just looking to sort out borrowing the money. Was a little angry how difficult it all felt today, like starting from scratch.

Felt even stranger after two hours to jump back on a low 125 to get home again. Felt like a toy underneath me. No power, no weight, just tiny. Got the first feeling why people have a little 125 for ‘fun’ and a bigger serious bike for real riding.

Was a little angry how difficult it all felt today, like starting from scratch.

Wouldn't worry too much, once on the road all that falls away. 125s are probably easier for tight manoeuvres between cones in a carpark but on the road you can use the power of a bigger bike to your advantage. The only time I've really been aware of bike weight is when stopping or going around cones in my test. After a few road rides you'll love it 👍

I’m looking at a set of second hand Hagon shocks. They are listed as fitting for a 1995 Honda CB500 (lowering it).
I want to fit them to my Guzzi V50 III. They are the correct length. I can get the correct bushings to mount. Is there anything else to consider/worry about?
The model is 31023SA. Hagon specifies 31015SA for V50...

Spring rate will be different, depending how old/used they are they may benefit from new springs anyway though.

That scene on Passenger 57 when Wesley Snipes dumps the police cruiser on the ground instead of kicking the stand....

Morning kiddos. Don't imagine anyone is after a security chain, are they? I'm flogging my old Almax Immobiliser Series III with a Squire SS65CS Stronghold Lock - all three keys and security card.

Paid £187 for the both, say £80 with collection from Leyton?

Might be interested in the chain if you'd sell it separately? If so how long is it?

Thanks.
They are almost as new, but cheap.
The honda is similar weight, power, and intended use as my guzzi so I’ll give it a go.
If they don’t feel right I can get new springs and have paid around 100gbp in total for a practically new set I reckon.

Definitely interested - the chain length is 2 meters. Let me know.

The angle of the shock also makes a big difference, not sure which Guzzi you've got but I don't think they'll be too far off.

Sounds good, have PM'd.

Having chopped and changed rear shocks such running a suzuki bandit 6 with honda 600rr rear shock ( I was the first i believe) I wouldn't worry about it too much other than getting the static sag right and springs that fit you wieght kitted up. Hagon will sell you springs of a different rate.

You gonna give me your SV for next to nothing then? :)

You want a cheap sv?

Delboy in questionable taste shocker, thought it was going okay until...

https://youtu.be/fMfM91Vhb5Q

No way to join steel and brass?

What part of the world is this guy from that they haven't heard of brazing?

The fun of ‘learning.

GN died and refused to start nor idle a week or so ago. First it was running good, then weird, then there was a scratchy rattly noise from the engine, then idling high at a little over 2k (had been set just under 1.5k after carb clean). Then when coming to a stop it would bottom out and stall. Then I noticed the oil leak from the top of the engine, and rev cable housing split. So the next few times it just wouldn’t start or if it did it wouldn’t idle.

This was after a couple longer rides over 60 miles and pushing it to the limits as far as speed and revs. Italian tune-up, get whatever is gonna break to break I suppose.

Had the ‘skills assessment’ for a quote for DAS, 600 Bandits are heavy. So heavy.

Asked the Instructor about the 125. He pointed me to location of oil leaks and (as likely an air leak) recommended replace the inlet rubber between carb and engine. Told me about instant gasket as interim fix. When I got home I saw the choke piston’s grommet was useless too.

Instant gasket worked on the top bolt, even the rev counter cable. Inlet rubber disintegrated in my hand into two pieces. Mechanics ordered me a new one next-day £12.80. Fitted it and still no luck.

Removed the carb, partially disassembled and sprayed through ferocious carb cleaner stuff. Instant gasket’d a new grommet on the outside bit for the choke piston. Cleaned spark plug. Fully recharged battery.

Bike worked after all that, but throttle cable having been moved a bit now pinches when locked in one direction, opening throttle and idling high. Moved cable to try free it from pinching.

Managed two rides yesterday and today, didn’t die (me, nor bike). Engine still sounds scratchy-rattly though. May be normal for lawnmowers, may be impending doom.

Since the clean I think it actually reached an even higher top speed. I got the speedo to hit over the 70mph line, so probably I reached at least 65mph on the (/) dual carriageway. Ran out of road to try eke it further. 0-70 in 3.5 minutes.

Neutral position is now almost non-existent. Very not-possible to nudge into N after stopping. When cold sometimes not impossible. Fiddly. When stopped the light is on but on releasing clutch it shunts and dies, so clearly the bulb was lying.

Gearbox loving is on the list now. If I strip and check it over, I’m tempted to fit a gear indicator in there.

Sat on a bunch of used big-boy bikes at a dealer. Kinda hated the feel of most of them. Wanted to love the Triumph Daytona, but felt too stretched out. Ninja felt too small. Honda CBR/CBF felt quite okay. Then back to the Royal Enfield dealer, sat on the Himalayan and it felt perfect.

If all goes to plane I’ll have a full unrestricted license at the start of March, so test ride fun can happen. GN125’s MOT is end of March so clock is ticking to finish a cafe racer/street tracker conversion and get it road safe. Forks service is same cost as a new pattern set, may just buy new ones. Old ones are pitted.

I’ll bite. Potentially

Was a cheap one sv on one of the bandit forums I am a member of. Needed work, usual rear shock, forks leaking and pitted/scratched chain and sprokets also tyres.

I don’t have the space or inclination to be doing any work on something myself to be honest. And getting it done somewhere makes it start to be less cheap.
Don’t need a bike, just wouldn’t mind something to hop on for a Sunday every now and then