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• #2
I’ve done it without any issues. It’s only 5mm each side
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• #3
really nice 120 spaced wheels.
What are they? Can you get a 130mm axle?
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• #4
I did think that but was wondering if I was overlooking anything
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• #5
I could get a longer axle but the hub shell width will still be the same so not sure what I’m gaining for the extra expense over the gentle persuading approach
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• #6
Peace of mind if anything.
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• #7
It’ll take a lot more than a 130 axle to give me that!
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• #8
You could always fit a couple of washers either side on the inside if you have enough thread on the axle.
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• #9
I could get a longer axle but the hub shell width will still be the same so not sure what I’m gaining for the extra expense over the gentle persuading approach
If you're happy with flexing the frame in then nothing. I'd have a slight concern that the stays aren't flexing in evenly, leaving you with an asymmetric rear end (ooh missus etc.) Depending on the hub you could add spacers inside the locknuts, since you don't necessarly need the axle to locate very far into the dropout. Alternatively you could put a chain tug on the inside each of the track-ends, especially if you use ones with lugs that fit neatly into the track end itself?
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• #10
Had the same "issue" recently. @freezing77 suggestion is the easiest.
I bolted a solid axle front wheel (110)at the rear (it was 126), it cold set the rear to about 120mm OLD, straight.
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• #11
5mm of axle spacers each side (https://www.hubjub.co.uk/chainring-or-axle-spacers-44-p.asp) and Campag track nuts (they're much shallower than standard bolts, which makes up for the shorter axles) and you're golden: https://www.hubjub.co.uk/campagnolo-track-nuts-76-p.asp
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• #12
Halo sell conversion kits for their 120mm wheels. I bought a 2nd 130mm axle as I've just snapped one
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• #13
I may have some axles laying around can take some measurements at the weekend and let you know so no need for a new hub let me know if this is of interest
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• #14
Thanks all.
I think I’ll probably build up as is and see how it goes, if not great then will add washers/spacers then obviously decide to do it properly with a new hub or axle.
If I don’t die at stage one, I’ll update
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• #15
Can you 9" angle grinder the dropouts and screw some new ones on the insides? May need some reinforcement. Sure I've seen someone on here do that.
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• #16
Just bolt that sucker right on
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• #17
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• #18
I'm running a 120mm wheel on a 130mm frame, the problem lies with the amount of thread you've got left once you've put spacers in
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• #19
So I’ve popped a wheel in there and, although a bit tighter than usual it went in easily enough (which dies sound suspiciously like a rejected line from Carry on Cycling). Enough axle length to have spacers/washers too, if I want, and wheel looks to sit pretty straight.
2 Attachments
So I have a 130 spaced frame (track ends rather than a conversion) and a couple of really nice 120 spaced wheels.
The most elegant solution is to get a 130 hub but wondering if particularly problematic to gently persuade the steel frame to accept the 120 hub (I have tried and it goes in without too much bother). Frame is currently not built so can’t at present check chain line etc.
Would appreciate thoughts/advice