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• #19452
pictures are fun
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• #19453
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2 Attachments
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• #19454
A bead of ct1 or similar round the inside lip of the window will make it pretty hard to open, take the flaky paint off first.
Be wary of disturbing the roof material, from those photos, it looks likely to contain asbestos.
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• #19455
Silicone sealing a shower: to tape or not to tape?
I made a right balls up of it yesterday and have to start again, so would like to get it right next time.
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• #19456
Yeah fair enough - I didn’t think I was but everything has tiny sinks unless you go modern wallhung or spend £4k.
I was hoping there was a secret trade supplier of unfinished units for painting to match your walls!
Compromised with Mrs Hammer on something a bit out there but with a nice marble top (and on sale, most importantly). -
• #19457
cheers! by roof material do you mean the corrugated sheet? 90% sure it's galvanised steel but doesn't look like it on these photos.
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• #19458
It could well be but in buildings that age and that standard then corrugated asbestos re-enforced cement sheets are a distinct possibility. Looks like this:
Its not an issue unless it is disturbed.
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• #19459
don't worry – it's definitely a new(er) steel replacement
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• #19460
Silicone sealing a shower: to tape or not to tape?
Definitely tape. Easier to get the corners right when taping, if you use a spatula or similar to hold tape down and tear it off against. Then silicone and finish off with a vinyl gloved finger dipped in soapy water (ooohhhh) before removing the masking tape.
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• #19461
Ok thanks sounds straight forward
Just need to pick a date to start the works
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• #19462
I bought one of them tools to spread the sealant for a couple quid. Easy enough that way
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• #19463
This is meant to be useful
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• #19464
Cheers, I'd pretty much written off using a tool and going the soapy-finger route, but a lot of what he says makes sense.
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• #19465
Ok still in kitchen hell, but this time with a broken (fractured) foot from dropping a sink unit on my stocking foot.
Wall units are 1200mm units odd or is it 800 and 1000mm only?
Wasn't there a kitchen company that made bespoke ish units that you could specify the width of units in 100mm increments. Does anyone remember it.
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• #19466
Anyone used Better kitchens?
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• #19467
DIY Kitchens is supposed to be good if you're happy to plan it yourself.
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• #19468
Yeah priced up a kitchen with them and its coming in at less than £1800 delivered, even with a 1200mm horizontal bi fold door that in a bespoke kitchen place was £1500 while diy is less than a third.
Looking at units online and better kitchens too. Chatted to DIY kitchens on the phone and they were really helpful and honest, they make all the carcasses and then some of the doors and
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• #19469
Anyone know how these are attached? There’s a small screw which doesn’t seem to tighten or loosen, assume the goon who ruined the soap dish ruined that, too.
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• #19470
I think the grub screw would be holding on a cover which conceals the screws going into the wall.
If the grub screw has been damaged I'm not sure.
Did they use the soap dish for cooking up heroin?
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• #19471
There'll be a bracket that it tightens onto that's screwed into the wall. Grub screw will be like so:
Drill the screw out and it'll come out
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• #19472
Probably dumped a load of bleach or similar in it then left it for a week.
Or Herion, yeah.
Fucksticks, really want to remove / replace without fucking up the tiles behind it.
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• #19473
Drill the grub screw out?
Can't access the screw on the soap dish with a drill. Could just hacksaw the case to bits I guess; it's dead anyway.
The towel holder actually spins on a central axis, it's as if the screw is doing nothing. Have you got any other photos of the bracket? I can't tell how it works.
There's three of these: the cup / TB holder, towel holder and soap holder and the screw on all of them turns but does not release. How is that possible?!
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• #19474
I've got 3 planks of planed oak I'd like to make shelves with. They were leftover from the old place so they're a bit large for the alcoves at the new place. Alcoves are 830mm, planks are 1150mm x 200mm x 20mm.
I figure rather than my usual bodge shelf of using some 2x4 pine for battens I'd use the excess oak. I figure I can get 4 strips of 200mm x 20mm x 50mm. I'll just need 2 per plank so I'm calculating some room for waste.
Typically I hack about getting uneven lines with a Japanese style pull saw. I have no idea why I use it, I just have a few of them and they're my go-to.
But these are going to require some quite precise cuts even factoring in waste and my skill with a pull saw isn't up to task.
What combination of power tools do I need and is there a portable solution? I don't have a dedicated workshop so can't install anything permanent. I have an outside alley I could work in and could feed power through a window.
I don't want a table saw as they're bulky and I don't have anywhere suitable to store them.
I don't love/never get fabulous results with jigsaws (probably by not using jigs properly/at all).
I have something like this if it helps:
I'd like to do the work today and hit Screwfix/B&Q etc in the next couple of hours for whatever tool/s it requires. I could research more and do it later in the week but it'd be nice to have it done. I've lived here 18 months now and bare alcoves are driving my wife understandably bananas.
Thoughts?
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• #19475
Chop saw if you have space or circular saw and speed square if you don’t.
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