Current Projects chat and miscellany

SO, what would be my option s for a contemporary 48/34 set up? I'm having real trouble finding anyone that produces these,would I need to buy a crankset and then get the chainrings separately from someone else? I can find 48/32 but I don't really need an inner ring that small

If you are that fuzzed about a two tooth difference on the inner ring, what's stopping you from buying the chainrings seperately?

Nothing I guess. It's just that my knowledge of crank/chainring set ups is somewhat outdated so I just want to see what is possible and compatible with up to date equipment rather than just buying a standard 50 or 52 tooth road setup.

Yeah it’s because of the 130bcd chainset, which is sort of a legacy in my parts bin. Cassette size was chosen based on that. Would technically make more sense to use a smaller BCD and a 34, then not need the huge cassette and long derailleur!

Completely agree about cassettes starting with 12t. Don’t know what it is about the 11, I can see its use for big downhill stuff, but it’s such a horrible grindy solution right at the limit of what the chain wants to do.

Shimano FC-R460 comes in 48-34 though..
https://m.bikester.dk/shimano-fc-r460-kranksaet-road-2x10-speed-48-34t-sort-474037.html

New 4700 too. Pair it with 12-28 cassette and seems perfect for most terrain

this


and this

for the rest (shifting etc) i'm looking for 10spd silver campa + classic looking wheels

edit:fixed pictures

People not logged in to eingangrad.de won't be able to see images hosted there

As the owner of a used bmc 55cm st x 56cm tt, I got the new derailleur setup and on the ride back from the bike shop I hit a rock and flat then a super long walk back to the bus stop because I carry nothing. Is this too small for me? Will I snap this seatpost at this height. lord help me. I kinda want to give it to my brother. I think he rides 53/54cm bikes and he doesn't ride at all. I installed a tube and realized I didn't know how to put a rear road wheel back on. I've only ridden fixed and shitty commuters that I never really flatted. Just sorta beat to shit and never dealt with again.

1 Attachment

The bike in full . It feels great. I think I'd swap the stem for a 120 that's about it but I don't trust how much seatpost I have showing below the minimum length.

1 Attachment

+1 for 48/34 and no doubt tester is stronger than I.

Surely tho 'sub-compact' indicates a small ring of <34T such as used in the recent Shimano GRX chainsets?

Surely tho 'sub-compact' indicates a small ring of <34T

That does seem to be common usage, but since the OP pitched the question in terms of 48/36 I thought I'd run with the 110mm PCD implication 🙂

IT may do yes, I just used this as I was going on the fact 48 outer ring seem to be found mainly on subcompacts. Basically I can't really usefully push a 50 outer ring for any length of time, and I don't encounter any big hills very often, hence no need for a <34T inner.

Day 2. whole lotta fun. Trackstands on the drops over the tops. Dang. I should have purchased a road bike years ago. I'm going to buy a 57-58cm bike idk. See how this fits my brother first.

48/36 indeed works well for most, most of the time. I used and enjoyed this combo for years.

No doubt it's been answered elsewhere so I apologise;
What's the go-to solution to avoid rattle from an unsprung brake lever sans cable?

(I'm running a pair of SRAM S500's without rear brake and don't want to wrap bars without knowing I have a robust, lasting solution!)

No doubt it's been answered elsewhere

Many times. Many, many times.

The invisible hack is the biro-spring method, but ain't nobody got time fo dat, so a simple wrap of self amalgamating tape round the lever and hood does the job and is pretty unobtrusive if you have black levers and black tape. You can also get the tape in clear which would probably look better with silver levers. You can see it (just) on the left lever on my 464 in the relevant thread.

A much less elegant but still functional solution than Tester's is just to shove a rolled up bill of electrical tape behind the lever to fill the space.

Ah yes, that makes sense: https://www.lfgss.com/comments/14373704/
Cheers

Good point, cheers

My christmas present is nearly ready. It is an early to mid eighties mexico pista, same era as the nuovo mexico.

I also got an oval master earlier this year which has been a nightmare. Everything was overtightened from the bottom bracket to the bottle cage bolts. Bottom bracket is still stuck.

Also one of my christmas! A 1996 spiral conic

I looped an o-ring through the cable hole and round the bar. You need to do this with the lever off the bar, so you loop the other end of the o-ring over the bar, but apart from that's it's piss easy.

Some daylight pictures of the GT Tequesta I was working on previously.

Have since shortened the chain so it's done but as admitting that would mean thinking about what I'd like to do in life rather than endlessly tinker with bikes, still to do is:

Front wheel needs truing...or replacing with a cheapie decathlon dynamo one + lights obviously
Front rack possibly needs attaching, possibly with basket (I have one of those metro racks + the big wald, but I feel like it'll just make the whole thing huge, unwieldy, etc. Would rather get a little brake stud mounted rack and the small wald)
Full length mudguards
Plastic MTB pedals
Nicer tyres (these feel dead, might be because of the weird anti puncture strip they came lined with? Are specialised crossroads known to be terrible tyres that need all the protection they can get?)

The ride is a bit sketch if I'm honest. Short stem + massive bars is a bit...funny. Contemplating getting some cheapie humpbert/ergotech risers with some sweep (less than 45degrees) but would like to ride a bit more first.

2 Attachments

Have you tinkered at all with your VO Neutrino?