Pre 1950s rides of LFGSS: old bikes, vintage rats, classic lightweights

@cycleclinic I've got a few that I've got knocking about. Feel free to come round for a look. I'm in Catford

Catford, is that Kent? That's a fair ride from suffolk.

8 hours easy :)

I've nought a new 1/8 chain and it's definitely got more flex and is narrower over all, so will readjust the mech and give it a go this weekend. Fingers crossed

Dug out the Gillott and fitted some new Velox Tressorex.

Little tip for finishing off cotton bar tape is a quick wrap of oldschool fabric electrical tape - Looks very similar to cotton bar tape but much more sticky

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Where I really struggled was fitting some waterslide decals.... As soon as they were soaked enough to separate from the backing paper they just dissolved into dust - I'm guessing they're probably original 40's stock (from H Llloyd) - In the end I managed to get as many letters as I could by moving them around with a tiny paintbrush in wet lacquer - the missing bits I think I'm going to have to do with one of those white paint pens

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Light was nice this morning, so I took a few shots
#spearpointlugporn

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Found some splendid expanding Milremo end plugs that are approximately period correct which I was pretty pleased with too.
Hopefully the gum hoods will last a bit longer!

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You've down a great job with that, looks ace!

If you soaked the transfers in water - why would you then use a brush soaked in lacquer to move them about ? Sorry if dumb question, but I'm about to do the same.

Love the bike, patina belongs on these machines! I can't stand all these fucktards making everything as new, it takes the bike's soul away IMHO.

1947 predates those brake levers. The hoods were yet to be thought of.
If you want replacement hoods try this vendor. He made some off white ones for my Ace Special
It is my understanding that he has the moulds, and he has gum coloured material. Worth a try.
GB Standard levers were more commonplace in the immediate post-war period. And a shipment of my Shockstop 'Honking' rubbers will soon make the trip halfway around the world.
I have the moulds half made for the Shockstop bar end plugs. I just need some time.

Thanks a lot, it's a lovely bike and deserves a light touch I think!

Cheers, I try to avoid removing any original paint and as you say, these bikes earn their patina... I've owned some pretty ropey painted bikes over the years so this one's pretty tidy compared to some: Eroica Rat, Bob Rat, Chas Rat

The water slide transfer sits on the frame with a water soluble glue so it's a bit vulnerable, especially if the glue's a bit dodgy... to protect it when it's applied to the surface you usually use some form of lacquer e.g. Humbrol Clear Poly Gloss (No.35) available from model shops.

As flaky bits of crappy sticker falling off I left them to dry in approximately the reight position with tweezers and then slid them into place with a paintbrush loaded with lacquer before sealing everything in place with a layer of laquer

I love the TT & fork paint on that Ace special, it's a great build too, excellent work.

I'm aware that the levers are not period correct but nothing on this bike really is, it has a stronglight H/S with campag lock, RH crank is Stronglight LH is campag, front brake is a GB and the rear is a Weinmann 730 so it's all a bit of a mishmash of decent quality kit from the late 40's through to the mid 70's but I quite like it like that.

Re: the honking rubbers - When these hoods finally die, I think I'll go for a set.

re: moulding, there used to be a US based guy on Classic Rendezvous who could occasionally be persuaded to run a batch of gum hoods but I think he only did Campag rather than the Universal and Weinmann units for us mortals...

Making moulds is relatively straightforward and cost effective in 3D printing world nowadays, I'm not sure where you find tough natural rubber in small batch sizes though.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tgwOyGsmyHo

Bob rat is/was so good. I mean, the ones you listed are all nice ha :)

Cheers, Bob rat was (and presumably still is) a pretty unique bike!

Yes Robbie Fellows (on CR) did the Campagnolo hoods. I have a set of his on my Gios Torino
It seems that there are a number of Italian producers of the Campagnolo hoods that are highly regarded has taken that niche market.
David has a excellent thread on how to make urethane parts.
For the DIY, the product able to be used is limited to take into account the need for room temperature curing, acceptable shore hardness and relatively long pot life. The long pot life is to allow for the mixing and degassing and then curing under pressure, all in the quest to reduce the appearance and size of unwanted bubbles. I have the vacuum pump (for making leather saddle covers) and I have bought a pressure pot for the pressure curing.

I am not sure the honking rubbers would fit the later curvaceous brake bodies. The GB Standards were more workmanlike in shape. Try that link and see if he will make a set of Weinmann hoods. He was very easy to work with.

Looks like I'm going to be selling my Carlton Flyer/Massed start, the one that's been giving me all the trouble with the simplex tour de france. I'm thinking of reducing my bike collection as I can't use all 5 nearly enough, and keeping 2 or 3 and getting either new (!) custom frame or an Isen. It's currently built up with the tdf, chater lea cranks, constrictor wheelset, gb brakes and reynolds bar and stem. I can post pictures if anyone is interested.

Ah yes, Robbie Fellows is the name I was thinking of
Thanks for David's link that's really excellent and looks like a lot of fun.
Good point on the honking rubbers/brake body shape - I'll drop Jordi a line and see if he can do the Weinmann ones..

I can't stand all these fucktards making everything as new, it takes the bike's soul away IMHO.

Yeah, sorry about that.
Signed,
F. Ucktard

From one F. Ucktard to another 👍

I really didn’t mean to do it but I’ve got a Hobbs hidden in the attic that needs painting.

Frame number question: anyone know what marque used the prefix AK plus 4 digits? In this case the reference no is AK1520, situated underneath the bottom bracket.

Sun used a 2-letter followed by 4-number convention, but an A prefix would make it around 1933-1934

Anyone got any tips for cutting Fibrax brake blocks?

On the subject of tips... how can I clean up some slightly ratty chrome forks and chainstays? There's a bit of rust on them