Pre 1950s rides of LFGSS: old bikes, vintage rats, classic lightweights

There not in order

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Sandgate

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White cliffs of dover

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Holdsworth
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F193217563649

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well, I've got the simplex to shift properly over a 3 speed block, but I had to basically dismantle 2 and rebuild them from parts of each to get that, but I still can't get the tension arm to take up the slack when on the smallest 16 tooth sprocket. IF you stop pedalling the chain basically just flaps loose against the chainstay, even with a shorter than ideal chain. The tension arm just won't spring back to take up the slack at all. I really can not get on with this derailleur system at all.
Give me a sturmey archer any day of the week

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Anyone got any tips on how to set up one of the old campy NRecord twin bolt seat posts?
Is there a knack/trick I’m missing or are they just v v fiddly?
I’ve tried fitting the front clamp and tightening it before adjusting the rear one but the saddle nose keeps dropping whatever I do...

In my experience just v v fiddly :D

Thanks!

I think I’ve been over tightening them which is why the nose drops.
I’ll try and just tighten so they hold it in place.

OK, so begging some more advice/help here. I've got the Simplex Tour de France set up and working fine over two cogs, but it always slips or skips on the smallest cog/highest gear (which is only a 16 tooth). It's as if the tension on the tension arm spring isn't high enough, (but it's twisted round so high that it almost took the end of my finger of today!) and the arm skips forward as you put force on the pedals. NO amount of faffing or alteration seems to stop this, and I am frankly, at a loss to sort it out or even understand why? it happens.

SO,, any help or ideas offered would be greatly appreciated indeed, (before I give up on the whole mis-adventure and sell the lot)...

any video of the gear changing?

if you remove the chain, does the derailleur move just past the smallest sprocket (to allow for an overshift to get it in gear)?

It may be the chain length; how did you determine the chain length?
I have the that Simplex model 3 speed 1/8" on my 1948 bike. Moves correctly. The initial setup took a bit of time following the instructions.
This involved starting from scratch and following the instructions carefully. Each time it seemed to improve my application of the instructions.

I've basically installed, uninstalled and dismantled 2 derailleurs twice. I think I did chain length by the shimano Largest sprocket + 2links if I remember correctly) method, which others seem to say they have used with some success (can't remember where I saw this suggested).

No video I'm afraid, it shifts and runs fine when there is no significant force on the pedals (ie on a bike stand) but as soon as I'm actually trying to ride it, it sort of skips or bounces as you apply weight/force on the pedals- as I say the tensioning arm gets pulled forward a little like the chain is sticking in the derailleur or something.....creating a skip in the chain. It works fine on the two largest sprockets and runs/pedals smoothly.

Just cannot figure this mech out!

Having fiddled a bit more and ridden up and down a bit, I've come to the conclusion the chain may be part of the issue, as the stickinging/slipping always seems to come in the same place/rhythm-so I wonder if a stiff part is the issue or a chain pin out of line that catches on the cage.. It's a Renolds 1/8th period chain, which I've always found to be quite a beefy chain, so I may try a modern 1/8th to see if that runs better.....

Peter Underwood suggests that method to get the chain length.

The flat coiled spring was good at grabbing mud and creating a grinding compound. I wonder if there is any wear inside the windings of the spring causing friction, or just enough to make it hessitate to accomodate the next cog - did that make any sense !?

I've remove it and cleaned it, and tried an alternative and both do the same so it's something in the set up somewhere rather than the parts per say I think, unless it's the chain that is

the flat coiled steel is only a dust cover.

Anyone got any tips on how to set up one of the old campy NRecord twin bolt seat posts?
Is there a knack/trick I’m missing or are they just v v fiddly?
I’ve tried fitting the front clamp and tightening it before adjusting the rear one but the saddle nose keeps dropping whatever I do...

This seems a bit wierd. The two bolts clamp either side of the post, fore & aft, so if the rear one is tightened, the front tightens up too. You gradually tighten each one to keep it the level you want. Ideally with the incredibly rare proprietary stepped spanner.

Hi Jeff
Seems like you are living the dream here. Did you spot the bit on Peter Underwood aka @Innanzi ‘s bit about people getting the jockeys the wrong way round? ... just wondering if your problem is something really straightforward (unlikely, I know)

Its pretty much there now. Not happy with the mudguards. I put them on backwards as the other way would ha e the guard bit not protecting me. The guards are blumels tour de france. O.k not period so any suggestions.

Period bottle cages anh suggestions.

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Looks great, how are you getting on with the campag gearing system. What's the frame and it definitely needs tubs. As for the mudguards either a full wrap around guard or nothing at all, but what ever works for you I guess.

Those are dugast strada tubulars. its a benneto. I'm not flexible enough to change gear without crashing or pulling something.

I dont like the guards so there coming off. I still need bottle cages though.

These 'mudguards' never gave any protection, and racing bikes never have mudguards. I suggest you take them off and forget them.

I'm sure we'll all be most interested to hear how you get on with the cambio corsa on the road.

dugast tubs nice. @7ven might have a couple of bottle cages knocking about.
I'm sure it's great fun to ride.
Incidentally @7ven Im still in dept from the cage I bought from you.

Jeff 80.
The jumping problem sounds to me like an incompatible chain and sprocket rather than a malfunctioning derailleur. Even the best modern mechs won't stop the chain jumping when there is wear on the chain or the sprocket, and jumping on one sprocket is typical, since it's the most worn one that jumps.

Of course, if you're using a new block and a new chain then I'm wrong, but if one is new and the other is not this could well be your problem.