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thus looks amazing, unless you've done this type of work its very difficult to understand the extra work which is involved in setting everything out with consistent gaps to the boards and screws -great work! Glad the idea of staggering the boards worked out
I never considered the detail between the plaster skim and the boards would be so pronounced. In hindsight a shadow stop bead or skim bead prior to boarding would have helped?Is it too late or do you not have space to install electric underfloor heating? would save on losing wall space and give more uniform heat.
Maybe a rubber stud tile? Nora do some but they may make it difficult to roll your machines round? or maybe marmoleum? Forbo are a good product
pryally
Update! Had a plasterer come in to do the ceiling. He did a pretty decent job, although it's a bit wavy at the edges which doesn't look great with the crisp edge of the wall panels, but that's mostly me being anal as usual. After the skim I set about cutting up the birch plywood. I went for 12mm as it was a fair bit cheaper than 18mm and plenty strong enough. Cutting to size was straight forward enough, lots of measure measure tracksaw. I used 3mm window packers to help with maintaining a consistent gap, the laser level came in very useful too. Spending ages getting everything nice and square during the construction phase really paid dividends here. Thank you very much for whoever it was @pryally ? who suggested I stagger the boards. I think it looks significantly better this way than vertical boards would have.
I used lost-tite screws, which have a very small head and a nice T10 driver. I spent 10x longer than I otherwise could have by making sure all screwheads were in line with one another and evenly spaced (I may decide to leave them exposed)
I've also put in all the spot lights and ghetto rigged a plug to them connected to an extension reel from the house. Finally some proper light.
It's all coming together, need to decide on flooring and skirting next. I was originally thinking of going for oak (laminate or engineered wood), but now I'm not sure. If any style folk have an opinion I'm all ears, it needs to be 12-14mm thick though so it's flush with the door threshold.