Home DIY

K. I'll stick with my jumping on the end of the scaffold pole extension trick then.

I need to core drill holes into concrete ceilings on Monday. 52mm wide, about 20-25mm deep for samples to test the make up of said concrete.

I may have to fill the holes and make good. Can anyone suggest a 'filler' that won't immediately fall back out again and, hopefully, can be done in one go?

Can you drill a small screw or something into the side of the hole to act as an anchor?

Resin/bond the bit you cut out back in?

An alcove cupboard with a removable skirting board (attached with magnets) is fairly neat if you don't want it to look like a desk in between working hours.

Not into a 52mm hole in structural concrete.

The bit I cut out goes with the structural engineer to be tested, it won't return.

???? Should have been done and certified when the slab was poured. Test cubes should have been poured, soaked and pressure tested.

There are specialist grout products you can get (or alternatively go old school and use sand, cement and water) to fill the holes left behind once whirly bolts have been removed and formwork has been struck, it has the potential to be messy overhead but mixing it stiff, forcing it it and covering it whilst setting should get the job done.

Dunno. It's a job I've been tasked with. I asked if it was strength testing but it's not. Something to do with composition of said concrete.

To be honest it'll be above ceiling tiles and probably not on show. However work and the client are being pretty vague about it and I'm trying to cover bases here.

I can tell you now that formwork won't happen. It'll be quick and dirty. Work just said 'Buy Pollyfilla' but I know that won't work. Meh...

Oh. These clinics were built in the 80's so there may be some NHS warning that I've not seen and they are now having problems with.

Pollyfilla will slump and crack something rotten in a hole that size.

Check what dust mitigation is in your RAMS, especially if you think there could be something nasty.

If it’s not on show, what’s the point?
Expanding foam should do it!

Just realised I thought it said 154mm not 54mm. My brain shat a brick and pictured a hole way bigger.

Could literally bang it full of this
https://www.screwfix.com/p/fischer-fis-v-hybrid-mortar-resin-360ml/88507?kpid=88507&ds_kid=92700048793290424&ds_rl=1249413&gclid=CjwKCAiA_f3uBRAmEiwAzPuaM_fAEeLJ2VGDTwPa6AHFmgpLgckLo2SGUNuTGgl1cEmt4ODvcr49QBoClAwQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Or just cut another bit of concrete with the same hole saw and glue that bit in.

Ha. The first proper H&S advice!

There will be the work vacuum to pick up the dust. I have no idea what they are testing for. I will be asking though.

It won't be asbestos though as I have the official reports for that.

That's a great idea. I should of thought of that.

I'll run it past the client.

Actually that looks exactly the sort of thing that will be dirty enough to work.

Thanks! 😊

I’m a dirty bodge specialist.

Do I need an impact driver? If so thoughts?

I have the exact same machine, an impressive well built piece of kit.
I bought it due to putting up my own built in wardrobes. The boards I'm using are MFC, the impact driver ripped every screw I tried in, luckily test pieces. These where pocket screws and confirmat. You don't get the feel. I finished off using my trusty old drill driver with a torque setting. The only screws I used it on was for the wall battens, easy drive concrete screws And even then lost a couple.

Note, could be varying degrees of operator error

Impact drivers for pocket screws are a no no unless you have a delicate touch. Always best to use a drill driver and set the clutch to prevent you over-driving them.

pocket screws

Not that happy with them in general. Especially when going in to the hard faced MFC, struggle to hold pieces in position, even when clamping and using kosher Kregg screws. Where possible used the confirmat, worth it even with the price of the bits taken in to consideration. Good solid join.

Yeah fair enough. I've only used them in MDF and plywood projects and been happy enough but I know what you mean about things shifting as you drive the screws, I can see that being even more so with hard faced materials.

I've been told I need to blank off a socket that is in the hot zone for a cooker. What's the best way to do that and keep the other sockets working? Is wago connectors and a metal blanking plate acceptable? Any suggestions on what to get for a double socket?

Yeah, that'll be fine. Just turn off the power, take the 2 Gang off and join the cables. Make sure you earth the backbox though.

Wago's don't need inspection like choc blocs do. Any double blanking plate will get covered in grease by virtue of being by the cooker so just get something that looks similar to the other sockets.

I don't really look at it from a H&S point of view, more a cover your arse point of view. Stick to the rams and your/your employer's insurance covers you if you or someone else is exposed to something nasty. Deviate from them and you're on your own.

Cheers. Any suggestions for a blanking plate. Stuff I've had recommended is stainless steel. Would some plastic be acceptable or am I looking at metal?