• At least one. Probably two. You may well also need to drill multiple holes in your handlebars and stem. And after all that, and after paying for your dental insurance policy, you'll still have the brake cables/hoses flailing around.

    This is how I did my Lynskey - junction box under the stem, cable to the junction B box in the downtube attached to the rear brake line with heat shrink. It goes into the frame at the headtube and stays there. Of course it looks much less sleek from the NDS as the rear brake hose runs all the way down the outside of the downtube.

  • Could I please get a close up of that routing?
    From each side if possible?

    It is even worst for my Lynskey Helix Pro as the rear brake hydro cable is externally routed...
    Should have gone eTap (don't actually know if there are less etubes...)

  • Not immediately, as I'm in the UK and the bike is in Switzerland, but I'll try to remember to take some photos at the weekend.

    Oh, and my other top tip is to make sure you're not using a 30mm crank spindle. If you are there's not enough space in the BB shell for the Di2 cable. That's why I ended up buying an Aldhus 24mm crankset and P2M power meter when I had a perfectly good Rotor 3D+ one I'd been planning on using.

  • Could I please get a close up of that routing?
    From each side if possible?

    Those show the routing. Di2 cables attach to brake hoses with heatshrink, all going to and from a 3 port Junction A box on a Fourier mount.

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