Hulsroy's Hustle

It is all about tying it up on a proper analysis and narrative.
What's your course?

Gotcha. Looking forward to updates on this one!

Very soon.
I am afraid I'll have to disappoint the fans of cable steering.
This one will be rod actuated.

I know it works and the geometry doesn't allow for many changes.

Going through shit I found this old project of mine.
Once I get around to welding it up it should allow me to clamp weird shit to it and let me drill and mill it.
It was originally for mitrering tubes on a pillar drill, but I have a mill for that now so not sure how needed this is anymore.

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Mustard and purple is 10/10. Also given your mini-me's age output is strong. I'm happy if I manage to bleed my brakes, building a bike is as likely as me commuting by unicorn.

I get up early and don't watch telly.

Today I was daddy from 8-11.30. Then workshop from 12-17. Then master soup chef and supplier of boiled broccoli mash until now. Then dishwasher for another half an hour. Then husband, tea maker and design partner until 22 where I go to bed :)

I see soo many internal cable routing situations and issues that I have been scared to do it.
It does not appeal to me at all. The actual job of building a bike with internal cables have seemed dumb and tedious and it never really made me excited seeing it on finished builds either.
Back when is was into 80s road bikes it only caused me issues. But I have probably gotten myself into building a frame or two with internal hydraulic cable for the rear brake. Gears will be wireless and forks are carbon so I only have to do this one internal cable.
I have heard it is possible to do it through a T47 BB shell but that it doesn't work for all BBs. So I came up with running the stainless tube outside the underside of the BB shell.

I'd like the hive minds view on this:

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I was going to do this on the frame I’m building at the moment but with my limited equipment, I figured getting 3 bends in the stainless tube in the perfect place and at the perfect radius was going to be too much faff for me so I just put an exit a couple inches away from the BB for a tiny run of outer cable under the BB and then back in the chainstay

I don't think it requires special equipment tho.
I was going to use my Rigid tube bender and just do it to measurements from my cad drawing.
Even if done analogue with a 1:1 drawing you should be able to lay the tubes flat and check your bends.
I'll do it as a "dry run". Before welding the tube I'll put it all in the jig including internal tube. Then tack and weld the frame staying away from the entry and exit points of the stainless tube and then fix that with fillet pro once done with the TIG.

I currently don’t have any method of bending tubes at all. Need to get myself a small tube bender

Mine was £20 second hand on eBay.

Edit: it was €35 and a Gould not a Rigid.

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Thanks, I’ll have a look for similar.
Looking forward to the cargo bike finished.

For my first Stayer (the green bike) the hose exits the down tube just before the BB on the side/top, then enters the chainstay on the top just after the BB (and out again on the top just before the caliper). So kind of like your solution but going above the BB instead of under. It's neat and I like it.

For my second Stayer (the sparkly bike) the hose exits the down tube just before the BB on the bottom/side and is then routed externally via one 'hook' (no zip-tie involved, not sure how it's called) put under the stay, under and on the inside of the chainstay to the caliper. So kind of like this solution but without the routing through the stay. It's also neat and I also like it. (The hose is black on sparkles so not really noticeable - and covered in mud most of the time. I should really take the rear caliper off anyway)

To me it seems the 2nd solution achieves much of the original intent (by going on the inside of the stay the hose is nicely hidden away, even if it isn't actually internally routed) with less faff than the first.

Thanks man. Take some photos for me if you find the time please.

I'm doing a masters in architecture, but in Switzerland, so probably not really comparable. Our master thesis is basically a regular design project, just more intensive - we get 3 topics we can choose from (or you could do a free thesis, which takes twice as long, but all of those I've seen so far were still fairly grounded in regular architecture, albeit mostly theory/sociology leaning).

Less OT: Really like your idea with routing the hose outside the bb shell, have you thought about running the external part in the middle of the bb shell/chainstays and only bend it towards the chainstay once it's tucked between the stays? Would obv make it more difficult with the part no longer being planar (and could introduce some tight bends/reduce clearance depending on tuktness I guess)

I am going to have to do some tests I guess.
Your idea might be too tricky but we'll see

I have heard it is possible to do it through a T47 BB shell

It is, but it's hard with a 30mm bottom bracket spindle. However, if you're using a 24mm BB spindle it's a piece of cake, although as you say it'll depend on the BB you use.

I've been thinking about similar things myself recently as my next homebrewed bike will not have a T47 BB due to it using lugs, so internal routing just isn't an option. I can't really see the benefit of having an external tube rather than just running a short section of hydraulic hose outside the frame and underneath the BB. Strikes me it'd just make it a total bugger to clean, and to make. Also, your picture shows the extra tube being hard up against the junction between the BB, DT and CSs, so presumably that would reduce the area available for brazing the BB shell.

tl;dr - I'm with @PhilDAS - short stretch of hose externally under the BB.

I did som modifications to the rack platform on the cargo bike.
Brazed on some M8 nuts which should allow me to bolt on some different stuff easily.

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I did som modifications to the rack platform on the cargo bike.
Brazed on M8 nuts which should allow me to bolt on some different stuff easily. It previously had just ø6mm holes for clamping stuff but that didn't work out nicely.

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You are probably right.

neat

There you go. I should really take that rear caliper off.

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Thanks man. Looks good

Nød lærer nøgen mand at spinde

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My rando has been shit for some time. The rear mech didn't shift properly and the front mech pushed the mudguards onto the tyre in the big ring. Also I ripped the bar tape It needed an overhaul.
So tonight I swapped the rear mech for a 5800, changed the inner cable and mounted a r8000 front mech. It seems to shift nicely now. But if this also ends up shit I'll run this thing fixed.

There is no excuse for white bar tape, but it was all I had except for green cotton tape.

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