-
I was going to do this on the frame I’m building at the moment but with my limited equipment, I figured getting 3 bends in the stainless tube in the perfect place and at the perfect radius was going to be too much faff for me so I just put an exit a couple inches away from the BB for a tiny run of outer cable under the BB and then back in the chainstay
PhilDAS-
I don't think it requires special equipment tho.
I was going to use my Rigid tube bender and just do it to measurements from my cad drawing.
Even if done analogue with a 1:1 drawing you should be able to lay the tubes flat and check your bends.
I'll do it as a "dry run". Before welding the tube I'll put it all in the jig including internal tube. Then tack and weld the frame staying away from the entry and exit points of the stainless tube and then fix that with fillet pro once done with the TIG.
Hulsroy
I see soo many internal cable routing situations and issues that I have been scared to do it.
It does not appeal to me at all. The actual job of building a bike with internal cables have seemed dumb and tedious and it never really made me excited seeing it on finished builds either.
Back when is was into 80s road bikes it only caused me issues. But I have probably gotten myself into building a frame or two with internal hydraulic cable for the rear brake. Gears will be wireless and forks are carbon so I only have to do this one internal cable.
I have heard it is possible to do it through a T47 BB shell but that it doesn't work for all BBs. So I came up with running the stainless tube outside the underside of the BB shell.
I'd like the hive minds view on this: