Crafts / Craftsmen / craftswomen (craftspeople, I suppose)

Did you use any specific type of concrete for this?

About 2 weeks ago I started working on the building, and was at it for a week and a half;

Step #1 I had to number all the parts of the building so that I could put it back together again once it had been dismantled.
Step #2 Dismantle it.
Step # 3 Stand back and scratch my head in amazement at the ineptitude of the person who was paid to put the building up when it was relocated to the museum 10 years ago.

I found a number of problems with the building, most stem from one fundamental mistake that was made when the building was initially erected. Normally when you put a piece of timber on top of brickwork or masonry you bed it on; that is to say you build up a mound of lime mortar that runs along the length of the masonry then place the timber on top of this, once this is done you knock the timber into level. Whoever put the sill on did it totally wrong, they levelled the sill using shims then pointed the gap using cement bricking mortar, this caused a cavity between the masonry and the timber that water was able to enter, but not escape. As a result the sill has extensive rot and insect damage and will need to be entirely replaced, also any piece of timber that is connected to or touching the sill is either rotten or starting to rot. So every stud will need a new piece of timber scarfing onto it towards the bottom, and the windows will also need repairs carrying out on them.

Any way my next step is to write a report that contains my method statement for carrying out repairs as well as my estimate. Once that is complete I will probably spend about a week and a half sanding the individual components to check for any further water damage before starting work on the joinery.

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Its blue circle ready mixed, but it wasn't an informed decision, just what was in b&q

That Eames lounge chair video is a great watch, both product and the video itself!

Cool, thanks. I had seen some concrete planters at the Barbican which I wanted to reproduce but thought you might need special concrete for smaller pieces

AIUI for sculpture and for small-scale work some art people add plasticisers and/or strengthening materials (fibres etc.), which allow you to use less water and get finer surface detail, but for planters etc. standard mixes are fine.

Looks great, it’s always a learning curve and subsequent ones will be better. Putting some finish on the wood will make it look even better
Maybe stainless steel dowel?

Any recommendations for finish to use? Not got a clue.
Was thinking maybe brass just for flash next time.

If you want to keep it simple go for osmo polyx, it's spendy but basically you can't go wrong with applying it, it's food safe and looks great.

There a some very dry (but interesting) books that run to hundreds of pages of text about nothing but finishing wood. Its a pretty deep rabbit hole. If you have the time and want to make it look extra special then I think a French polish would suit.

https://youtu.be/vFXsJNO3qsI

I would use liberon finishing oil. Apply, leave for 5 minutes and wipe off. Do this 4 or 5 times (24 hours between)
If you want a really good finish carry on but when you’ve put the oil on rub with 600 grit wet and dry for a few minutes, then wipe off. Also rub down between coats with 0000 wire wool.

Or what Bobbo said

i finish all my home-made furtinture by pouring tea and coffee all over them. saves me a job a couple of months down the line.

furtinture

Liberon is great stuff, use their stains and finishes all the time.

Cool, that's good to know!

Is no one using a grain filler before waxing/varnishing wood. I've only done a few restorations that needed stripping and varnishing and never got to that stage but read about it. Otherwise the grain always seems pretty obvious regardless of any fine sanding.

Never use it myself. Typically if I'm trying to achieve a finish that good I don't use open grained wood as I feel that this type of grain structure suits a more natural finish.

I use grain filler fairly frequently for hardwoods with an oiled finish for outdoor use. I can't imagine using it with wax or varnish as either will fill the grain anyway.

was asked to make these 1/6th scale signs for a diorama maker in California. At 12cm across they are easily the most lucrative thing I've done on a size/cost ratio. Etched into wood then painted. Made a manhole cover for them too - chuck in a freebie in hope of some more commissions.

And YIKES in concrete letters. I need to make an exclamation mark.

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Have never made concrete letters, but in the 90s we rearranged the ones on the grassy bank at Wadhurst Station to read 'Washturd'.

when you're watching an american DIY/woodworking type person on youtube and they say 'cubby'

Another thumbs up for Osmo oil....polyx for outdoors stuff, as it has uv protection, and door oil for...well, doors!
If im looking for a smooth finish on softwoods, I'll sand (80, 120, 240) then White spirit with fine wire wool. This lifts the grain, so another tickle with 120, or 240 grit, gets it flatter than a witch's tit.

made a shallow bowl out of spare plywood. lots of sanding and some black wax has got it coming up nice i think

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another american youtuber comment: why can none of them use a saw properly? they scutter it back and forth quickly around the middle of the blade using way too mush pressure and always snap off the last little piece.

at school (and like cubs or scouts i swear) we learned:

1. let the saw do the work
   
2. use the full length of the blade
   

Made a tripod dog

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What's a cubby? Google's only giving me small bears