-
• #1427
Doesn't make sense anyway, like having 32" wheels for a 58cm bicycle.
-
• #1428
Anyone interested in a Pacer, 50cm frameset?
-
• #1429
Alex D,
The QA section is a bit foggy if this refers to the complete builds or frame+separate wheels.
How tall are you+inseam lenght?
I'm 175 cm with inseam 81 cm and currently riding a steamroller 53 (TT=550 mm) and Kona Honky Tonk 54 (TT =550 mm). The 54 700c has a 565 mm TT, its too big, the 54 650b is the same.
So naturaly the 52 is the obvious choice, but this wheel size compatibility is puzzling me.
Thanx -
• #1430
I’m 5’8 (173cm) but not sure what my inseam is to be honest. I very occasionally noticed a bit of toe overlap with 700c but that’s nit picking.
Mine is dismantled - because it’s for sale! But I’d be happy to chuck a wheel in etc if you want any real-world measurements
-
• #1431
If that doesn't take too much of your time. Take a foto so I'll have a idea about the general proportions.
-
• #1432
54cm 5’9ish friends straggler
1 Attachment
-
• #1433
Ignore saddle and pedals...
Going to swap the bars, feel awesome, too much reach. (Ritchey new ones if anyone fancies 800mm)
Few final tweak, front rack and fit dyno lights etc
1 Attachment
-
• #1434
Are those the Kyote bars? I tried some, and while the sweep is ok, having it further forward is rather odd. I had to fit a shorter stem
-
• #1435
Yeah, be brilliant for loads of things but not right for this!
-
• #1436
Why not just get a shorter stem?
-
• #1437
Rather swap the bars than the stem... cheaper and easier
-
• #1438
In what world is up to 7 bolts to swap a stem harder than removing all your levers and grips and putting them on new bars and fitting them?!
-
• #1439
Easier because I know the bars would be too far even if I dropped to 80mm (30mm back) and that’s going to make the handling more twitchy. I want to keep it longer for a reason, plus, it’s good practise for kiddo to swap my bars...
-
• #1440
I'd get a shorter stem with some rise, lose a few spacers. But that's just me.
Was eyeing up Surlys today in Keep Pedalling, Manchester. I miss my Cross Check, there I said it, I've sold the wrong Surly. -
• #1441
Short stem = quicker handling, less stable feel.
Riser stem is an absolute no for me.
Less forward sweep bar, a tad of rise. Job done.
-
• #1442
o_O whatever floats your boat. Swept back style bars are nice because of the wrist angle. The way the ends are angled up right now probably doesn't benefit how they feel.
Shorten and cap the mudguard stays and add flaps :) Nice bike!
-
• #1443
Angle of the photo, they are flat!
These sweep Forward then back, to reduce shortening of the reach.
Stays will be trimmed, no caps as I trim them to sit inside the bracket and Brompton flaps of course
-
• #1444
Winter is here...
-
• #1445
Has anyone got any tips on a good carbon fork, for a Straggler?
-
• #1446
It's getting harder, with tapered steerers becoming the norm. I'm using an ebay special 26" mtb fork, it's not broken yet. There's also this:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hylix-1-1-8-700c-42-Disc-Brake-Carbon-Gravel-Fork-100-12mm-Flat-Mount-Cyclocross/293239603223?hash=item4446714017:g:UooAAOSwJV9dg4jFBut you might need a new hub
-
• #1447
https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/329305/?offset=25#comment14763729
Some discussion here too @JoeC -
• #1448
Thanks. I've been researching Hylix, and there is as much good as bad. Some folk complaining about safety and others swear by them.
-
• #1449
Thanks BTW, that thread is most helpful.
-
• #1450
Pisspoor photo ... had to get it ready for tomorrow.
Dad sled.
Awaiting front rack, for lights, frame pump, different bars/pedals/saddle. Pretty happy though!
2 Attachments
Yeah, that'll be why they don't offer build with the big wheels and small frames.