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• #14452
I desperately want to do an electric conversion build on a classic bike.
Over been looking into it and researching the pros and cons of hub-mounted motors vs mid-mounted motors etc.
There's a fair bit to it from a design perspective in terms of weight distribution, obviously performance isn't a big factor on something like this but it would be nice for it to feel nice and not ride like a pig.
Ideally I'd like a 1940s through to early 1950s donor bike, I've been leaning towards an early to mid-40s BSA M20, they're relatively plentiful.
I reckon using a 500cc bike of that vintage would give decent scope for battery capacity as opposed to a more lightweight 250cc, the frame and suspension would be on the beefier end of things for its time.
Ideally I'd like to get about 12/14kw motor capacity (a little more than an original M20, quite usable I'dimagine) and then obviously as much battery capacity as can be made to look aesthetically correct on the bike. I'd plan to make a sort of art-deco inspired, louvred aluminium casing for the batteries to take the place of the engine and then mount all of controls in the tank.No idea when I'll get around to doing this but it's definitely on the cards.
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• #14453
My dream is to have something like that, all electric and eco as hell. But currently what kind of range are people expecting from e-motor mods? Can't be very far. I'd have the fear about exploding batteries too...
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• #14454
Sounds a fun project but why not do it on a new(er) Enfield rather than chopping up an old BSA? Cheaper to start with and not taking an old'un out of the gene pool....
My mate's got a 46 B31 (I think) 500 Single and it's a sweet thing. They don't feel anything like newer bikes to ride. The engines are lovely, proper long stroke doffers.
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• #14455
The issue is battery range and battery life, but this is getting better. Then getting the center of gravity right.
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• #14456
Sorry I’m a bit lost on what you mean? Are you talking about the new blade?
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• #14457
I always wondered about weight distribution on electric bikes. Must be more of a pain as you’re quite limited by the solid lump of batteries
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• #14458
It is interesting how things are developing. Look at how e bikes are developing.
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• #14459
Mokka cycles are doing some of this, I saw a moped conversion at a show earlier in the year. Looked pretty decent
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• #14460
Not that I'm going to replace my Triumph twin anytime soon, or have space for another bike, but this kit for the BMW GS1200 is pretty cool.
https://www.unitgarage.com/kit/r120gs-adv
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• #14461
If you like the look of the older one so much why not buy one. At least you'll get more than your money back when you sell it (as long as you don't throw it down the road).
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• #14462
This is fantastic! Would absolutely love one. On a similar note...
Japan Legends Classic ZXR inspired kit for Z900.
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• #14463
These are great too.
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• #14464
Mad looks, quite like it. A pothole could take that belly pan right off though!
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• #14465
... or leave it outside. Or use it too much. Or have to replace the parts with carefully sourced OEM originals.
Lots of reasons really, but not least because the OG ones are 30yo.
Even including that expensive bodykit, a GS1200 is still probably 30%-50% cheaper. And let's be honest, a 5-10yo GS1200 has done most of it's depreciating, whilst still being rock solid, tried and tested bike.
The main thing that attracted me tho was that it was a GS that looked cool rather than the usual mid-life crises WITH ALL THE ACCESSORIES and a Polite hi-vis.
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• #14466
Rad!
It works so well too. I'd never really noticed bodykits on bikes before (asides from all the kitch café stuff). They make more sense to me than car ones.
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• #14467
I know the bikes pretty well. My 40 year old takes a bit of fettling but parts are easy. I think £8-10k gets you a really nice GS, they are great engines and the skill to get them running well and keep the running well is something anyone can learn.
The more recent BMW I had was the R1150 and the low speed fuelling issues in that model were really unpleasant, they are more efficient and much more powerful but you have to put up with the electronics controlling things a bit.
I should have made my reply a bit more general, I just meant that if the looks of the older model are what one wants one should not shy away from pursuing that as the reality of living with one is pretty pleasant. :)
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• #14468
I guess the RNine T is designed to appeal to people who want to create or recreate the looks with kit parts. They've been coming up with some great versions. The RNine T Urban GS looks pretty decent.
https://www.bmw-motorrad.co.uk/en/models/heritage/rnineturbangs.html
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• #14469
Update on the CBT thing. When I spoke to them on the phone, I expressed that I wanted to do a full DAS and didn’t want to rush. Going from zero motor experience, I want to do things properly not quickly. I was booked for Tuesday but it got bumped to today due to unforeseens.
This morning the guy said especially if the plan was a DAS, then rather than rushing the minimum levels of competence, get all the basics down as good as possible. I decided I was happier taking longer in the small carpark to go from zero experience to a small level of competence, then do the on-road another day.
Did almost every manoeuvre, including a number like U-turns in very narrow cones closer to real lane width. Took way longer than I anticipated to train the hands/feet coordination. After a few hours it’s amazing how much less daunting feathering a clutch or shifting first into second can be. Lots and lots of slow slow riding practice, keeping steering steady while lifesaver-ing. Lots of ‘bollocks!’ releasing the clutch and stalling, distracted by visualising junction line and thinking front brake rear brake road position first gear and all in the wrong order.
No whiskey throttling, no bike dropping, only one tiny skid on emergency stop practice, and no moments of panic. But, no on-road yet either.
Got the on-road for Friday morning for as long as necessary, still nervous about that as feeling a bit fingers and thumbs. Could do with a dummy cockpit (to practice while watching the tv), it’s grabbing the front lever and not revving the engine that’s my biggest hurdle. I hate that lever, doesn’t feel right.
But woah, after all day my head was full. My body lacked any coordination by the time I got home! Exhausted!
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• #14470
Good work fella. Don't pressure yourself too much, it'll all come together. What are you riding? Try braking with two fingers if the stoppers are up to it, gives you a bit more control of the throttle.
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• #14471
Good luck with on the road riding. I got the full license in the summer, almost no motorbike experience but been driving a car for years so I guess that helped a bit.
Getting used to controlling the bike while paying attention to all that is going on around you is tough, but as you get used to the controls it gets easier, though will still catch you out occasionally.
For stopping and using the front brake you need to physically turn to shut the throttle and then apply the brake. For me it is like three actions, close throttle, start to squeeze lever to let the brake bite and the front suspension to compress then brake further if or as you need.
Still making mistakes but think its one of the best things I have done. Now ride nearly every day.
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• #14472
@Jung I forgot to make note of what the little 125 is that I’ve been learning on, with everything I was learning the bike model wasn’t information I retained! But the learner 600 is some kinda Suzuki once I get past this level and get started on the DAS.
I was warned against two fingers, something about it being a fail in a test now. But also to get out the habit of reaching with two from bicycle riding - either throttle, or brake, not both. So yup like you say @Tosh I must train my muscles to roll off, then reach, then squeeze without twisting and rolling back again.
Getting excited for Friday, just to get stuck back in.
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• #14473
Aye you can cover the brake with your foot so no need to have two fingers on the lever. Whilst training for your test at least.
Well done dude
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• #14474
I do occasionally deliberately front brake whilst maintaining throttle, usually where a gentle roll-off would work to moderate speed but I want the brake lights to come on for the person following.
Also before low-speed downhill corners (with clutch slip) as the fuelling is a bit snatchy at the low end of the throttle.
No idea of the test-appropriate status of either though! -
• #14475
This is common practice, most MC have enough engine braking that for just pottering about you barely use the brakes, easier to drag rear brake though and with winter gloves on less chance for snatchy throttle input as you drag the brake lever.
I think advanced motor group people teach that? At regular bike license level they probably advise it, but don't require it.
Yea sorry I know that’s what you meant, but I’d sooner learn on home turf... especially because roads in Swindon are way worse than London. There’s no rhythm here, only impatience. So I’d sooner learn in harsh waters, than engine through London traffic!