• Why would I not just build it up as normal?

    Because the spoke heads end up not being uniformly spaced around the circumference after sliding into the slots. I don't know whether the instructions are right, but you definitely need to think carefully about what the eventual position of the spoke head is, rather than the position of the hole you drop it into.

  • The holes are even as far as I can tell with my rudimentary measuring tools (i.e. distance from trailing spoke to both adjacent pushing spokes on the same flange appears to be the same).

    But either way, the spoke head location is the same on both flanges, so why should that mean that I increase length on one set of spokes and decrease on the other?

    The only explanation I can think of is that for some reason, instead of giving us the flange dimensions for a geometrically equivalent normal hub they have given us the real dimensions and then added this fudge factor to account for the fact that the hub is flangeless. Makes no sense to me.

  • Because one flange diameter is bigger than the other. So you have to account for the difference somehow, or so it looks like.

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