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• #2
This is going to be a great mix of function, nostalgia and steez.
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• #3
Drivetrain undecided and I’m in no rush to build this one.
Sunrace 11-40t cassette
Shimano RD-M370 derailleur (SGS, can be found under £20) and Shimano Altus 8-Speed Rapidfire SLM310 shifters (can be found under £20).
Those are suggestion, abet only for 1x8 rather than triple, the 8 speed stuff mean cheap and easy to maintain, and the 40t sprocket be handy for a trailer.
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• #4
without a care in the world.
Here he is, Jones the Steam. Without a care in the world.
Looking forward to this project.
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• #5
.
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• #6
function, nostalgia and steez
Perfectly encapsulated in this, from my dads bike I’m rebuilding at the mo as well. I might ask if he can bear to part with it after all these years.
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• #7
Perfectly encapsulated in this
Agreed! This immediately takes me back to my teenage riding life.
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• #9
Yup the linkin park ref was intentional although I was all about skateboard and flatland by the time that came out. Fun fact: I bunked a french class trip to an exhibition in London to go buy that album when it came out.
Agree that gumwalls would look ace but £18 a pop is over budget for a bike I don’t really need..
I can always throw my Compass BonJon on for a pic to satisfy the forum style council?The more important decisions are which grips and what saddle? Obviously keeping the late 90s-early 00s dream alive is important. Looks like the french guy on eBay has finally run out of nos onza porcipaws and ules :(
Obvs I’ll prob put longnecks on but if anyone has a source for period correct grips that’d be sweet! -
• #10
The G one is a completely different tyre, it’s a “performance gravé” tyre; supple and fast but delicate. Would be the last tyre I would run on a city bike.
Saddle wise; battered flite if you get on with them.
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• #11
Ha yeh that’s the last tyre I want, have Compass for supple, fast and prone to punctures...
Battered flite works for me every time :) -
• #12
After a sweet ride in the country on my lht today I’m really keen to get this going...
Looking at the partial shimano 10sp groups on eBay but can’t see many 1x chainset options that aren’t big money. Should I be looking at sram too? Could prob stretch to £150 if needs be for a full group. -
• #13
Just put a narrow wide chainring on any old chainset?
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• #14
10-speed can catch you out with the spendiness quite quickly if you’re not careful.
Shimano has the issue that 10-speed road and mtb are not cross-compatible so you’ll have to commit to one and accept that only the cassette will be able to be used with road stuff if you ever want to share parts later. Shimano MTB stuff looks great these days but it ain’t cheap. The road flat bar shifters are a bit pony looking unless you shell out for R780 and you’ve got the issue that they’ve just changed their shift ratios to match 11-speed so you need to make sure you get the right ones.
SRAM X7 and Rival 10-speeds are both the same shift ratio (Exact Actuation) so will work each other - I’ve just done that with my GT. Got to say the X7 shifts really nicely and looks good IMO. I’ve also got the classic carbon X0 9-speed which looks really cool but doesn’t shift anywhere near as nicely. My NIB old stock shifters were about £35 and a VGC secondhand derailleur will set you back about the same again.
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• #15
Noted.
Presume I want non-boost spacing for chainset on this old thing? Sorry but modernish mtb stuff is all new to me -
• #16
Sorry but modernish mtb stuff is all new to me
Same here. I don’t know what boost spacing is, I did what I normally do with my road bikes which is to choose a bb width where I ride with a chain line sat in my normal ratios. I’ve got a Race Face crankset on the bike with the X0 1x setup - this is one of those splined setups where you can’t choose the bb width so you just have to trust it’s roughly in the right place. I just ended up picking a cassette which had ratios in the right place which, luckily, happened to be the SRAM one.
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• #17
Got a Selle Expedia saddle for £2 on fleabay, at least as comfy as a flite and matchy red n black. Lock on onza ules also en route.
There will be a few tasteless red ano bits as this is the bike the 11yr old mbuk reader in me would have built.This aliexpress group seems to work out good value compared with a lot of used stuff I’ve seen or getting it bit by bit.
https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32947710670.html?pid=808_0000_0109&spm=a2g0n.search-amp.list.32947710670&aff_trace_key=084c28b7b8f343158eec3341f2b841fb-1566828000626-05075-UneMJZVf&aff_platform=msite&m_page_id=2318amp-Mh1l7UQwtIIoNyAbZFlz0Q1566828453362Never bought from ali before but no reason to avoid I guess?
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• #18
This.
Standard MTB chsinset are 104bcd, and cheap narrow wide from eBay.
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• #19
I hear what you’re saying. Used lx square taper cranks on eBay £40, bb £15, nw + bolts £15
£70 seems a bit spendy for tatty arms when compared to the above complete new setup? I’m guessing the shouty ano single chainset for £50 complete are made of cheese.I put a group together from just used bits on eBay w/new chain and came to £160 without being extravagant at all.
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• #20
Are you set on lx/square taper?
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• #21
Nope I’m easy tbh, just looking for idiot proof compatability. I don’t have octalink tools but easily acquired
I’ve put plenty of bikes together just not looked into this era of stuff before.. -
• #22
Period correct is what I meant, because you can easily get a set of modern sram cranks with 1x on eBay for like 30 quid if you’re just looking for solid and non fancy
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• #23
I hear what you’re saying. Used lx square taper cranks on eBay £40, bb £15, nw + bolts £15
I found a 5 arm Sora crankset (without chainring) for £25 on ebay mainly so I can use a single chainring on, so I'm certain you can find a hollowtech MTB chainset for similar amount.
However, I'm certain you can easily find a standard square taper 104bcd crankset for less than £15, and add a £10 BB.
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• #24
Getting there.
Still bags of clearance with 37c so could do mudguards. I’ve got an original strutted rear crud which would have looked fantastic and also a handy saddlebag support. Works fine with cantis or discs but it won’t clear the arms/noodle on v’s.
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• #25
This is now nearly finished. Just getting bb chased n faced and will go together next week.
Should I keep it rad or go full functional and add ‘guards?
So I have a tourer, a ss, a 27+ and an ss mtb but what I don’t have is a basic bike for pulling my trailer, going for a picnic and locking up without a care in the world.
To this end I spent the princely sum of £50 on a Gt Legacy hybrid. Beneath the full length chainguard, horrible finishing kit and boat anchor chainset is a pretty cool frame.
After throwing everything except the bars, brakes and seat post in the bin I’m left with this(stem is a lower rise one I had on hand).
Lots of braze ons, cheap steel but the ride home was a blast so I’m quietly confident.
I need to grind off the chainguard mounts from the chainstay and bb and a quick rub down with t-cut all over.
Wheels and tyres ordered. https://www.tredz.co.uk/.Tru-Build-700c-Rear-Wheel-Mach1-240-Rim-8-9Speed-Cassette-Hub-QR_27735.htm?source=aw&awc=6821_1565629932_bb68251b7c553d0e24a2e9a65c8cccd6&utm_source=aw&utm_medium=101164
As recommended by @edscoble and @TM and Conti sport contact 37c.
Drivetrain undecided and I’m in no rush to build this one.
Will have the wald basket off of my steamroller.
There will be no mudguards or rear rack.
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