-
Clearcoat needs to contact the paint in order for the two to chemically bond properly.
Your sticker is a barrier stopping that from happening.The sticker is held on the bike only by the adhesive backing and the clearcoat isn't fixed to the sticker with anything significant - any minor flexing or contact/knocks will cause this to crack.
If you know what you're doing, it's a perfectly normal process to remove the sticker with abrasives, feather out the area, re-prime, re-paint, re-clear and then polish it to blend the spot repair.
The type of paint products you can/should use will depend on those already used on the original finish... as above, quality chemical bonds need to be achieved and not all paint products can work together, especially on a fully cured finish.
As for the Rotex dilemma?
You don't need to use a Festool sander to remove the original finish.
In fact, I'd steer you away from any power tools for this.
The tubes on your bike are round... the tool face is flat.
Remove the stickers and that area by hand... you also can avoid spending hundreds on the abrasives.If you're looking to have the current finish removed and a new one applied, drop me a DM and we can see if we can get your frameset into our workshop for a new finish.
Don't know if good here to ask but I'll go anyway with a question asked since 2005 in the internet:
Haveing stickers under clearcoat, which are lifting / braking (including the clearcoat above) I would need to buy for my Festool Rotex RO90 P1500 and P100o abrasive, to remove the clearcoat, then remove the stickers, spray paint clearcoat, again use abrasive and later polish with lambskin and polish. Is this somehow doable and get a not perfect but OK job done?
Problem is that all the abrasives (each pack of 50), and polish tools for my Rotex would be about £ 130, maybe 150. Or should I leave it and wait and save money, and maybe get a new spray paint – which I wanted to do anyways at some point?