Any question answered...

airbag warning light

A common issue with Citroen/Peugeot front seats is if they get pushed/slammed back when adjusting it does dislodge the wiring plug enough to show a fault. However I think all your problems are down to a flat battery. A new/good 12 volt battery has getting on for 13 volts in it so your <10 volts won't cut it. Where I work it's not unusual to have to piggyback two jump packs to start some cars.

Thank you very much - I'll have a look at the link (humour/potty mouth, what's not to like?). Battery terminals very clean tbh, no corrosion etc at contact points so I don't think that's it. I'll have a go at reconnect all fuses etc under seats, disconnect battery for 12+ hours and then new battery and hope for the best.

I'll update once I've done these three things.

Thanks again

anyone have a WSJ account? article in question; https://www.wsj.com/articles/SB119007210553130427

The battery tester showed only 9.8-10V on what's a 12V battery. The only thing that casts doubt is that it wouldn't start with a battery charger on 'start' mode.

Lots of newish cars won't even try to start if the battery voltage is much below 12v, as the current draw and voltage drop could cause damage.

If your battery is that flat, a booster pack will struggle if all its power is trying to charge a very dead battery.

Disconnect your battery - ve and cover the battery terminal so it can't touch again. Use a set of jump leads from another good battery/car, or booster.
Key from off to run NOT START. Do the dashboard lights look normal. Glow plug light goes out if it's a diesel.

If it looks good and your jump leads are heavy duty, or your booster is rated for cracking an engine as opposed to assisting, you could try starting it.
Alternatively, charge your battery before reconnecting the -ve and trying to start the car.

If disconnecting the battery for an hour didn't work. I doubt that overnight would be any different unless the battery is on charge overnight and holds about 12.8v after you switch off the charger.

Thanks for that; blindly hoping for a miracle following overnight disconnection, then a quick check of wires/connections under front seats (loads of crap rolled under) then got a charger loan pencilled in. Very much appreciate the response (s) and advice

Cheers

Airbag warning light could be a red herring with the unusually low voltage.

Get it srarted first, before messing with the wires under the seats as you may create a fault. Even if there is actually an airbag fault, it should still start and be drivable... Just not as safe to crash and an mot fail.

I very much suspect it is as it was one of several intermittent and inconsistent warnings - the only warning I've seen consistently occasional (if that makes sense) over the last 4-5 months is glow plugs

You should see the glow plug light for a second or three every time your about to start, depending on engine temp.

If they are coming on while the engine is running, that's not good

It's not been in recently and doesn't/hasn't come on mid drive, rather at the start, as you say but occasionally remaining on 'for a bit' and a 'warning glow plugs' message

Glow plug(s) may be fucked, so the pre heating is taking longer, using more from the battery... or not happening, so the starter motor needs to turn it over more, taking more from the battery.

a 'warning glow plugs' message

They do fail, not a particularly expensive thing to replace. They tend to run on 3 for a minute when cold starting if a glow plug is completely dead, so that's easy to diagnose in winter but probably barely noticeable as it's been so warm for the last few months.
The petrol ones (TU3) tended to eat coil packs pretty frequently, so it's swings and roundabouts 🙂

Thanks!

Ok, let's order those and make a start! I was going to order some from ECP but it was difficult to work out if pricing was for a pack or individual...could have called I guess! Cheers

Duh: Extra info tab

Quantity:4

Time Xpresso/Xpro/Iclic users -
Does anyone use these on their sweet fixies? I exploded a carbon spring slowing down at the lights, no crash or anything, JRA. The rest of the pedal was fine, and it was replaced under warranty but doesn't inspire confidence.

I've done a search and can't see any examples of anyone using these on the velodrome or skidding. Is this the reason why? I really like the pedals otherwise but not sure enough to buy a second pair of road shoes.

Any suggestions for good resources on the tube network and the rolling stock in particular?

Looking for things like how many trains and carriages each line has, how many run at any one time, number used at peak compared to the number off-peak, etc.

I thought there'd be some pretty detailed blogs about there but google isn't throwing anything up.

https://data.london.gov.uk/publisher/tfl

Any help?

@mdcc_tester
No joy, as expected with overnight disconnection.
Plan to try a battery charge to 12v+ this eve. If the battery won't achieve 12v+ then attempt to borrow a 12v battery to try.
Exactly the same symptoms as before (won't surprise you) - would embed video if I was clever enough!

Cheers

Sounds like terrorism.

Cheers, contains a variety of stuff but not that much recent about the tube unfortunately.

@pdlouche - close, accountancy.

I'd imagine if you asked, you might get lucky.
I think I asked about a shape file for all the bus routes once.

I've done a search and can't see any examples of anyone using these on the velodrome or skidding.

A team mate of mine uses them on the track, but always uses a toe strap as well. No idea if the toe strap is a habit or is there for a reason, but I've never seen him have any issue with them.

What's the best option for postage of a pair of wide handlebars (think Jones Loop width and sweep) within the UK. By the numbers they're Royal Mail large parcel size, which means Parcelforce only, which means > £10. Any better options?

Collectplus. Will be about £4

Cheers, their website says 50 x 50 x 60cm max. So they wouldn't fit.